'59 Plymouth Forum

Here she is, my 1959 Plymouth Belvedere. Stored last 30 years. Interior is awesome. A few tears on drivers back rest. Otherwise floors, dash, door panels like new. I would never have anticipated it cleaning up this well. It is running now, off remote tank. Car was undercoated and solid. It's a Michigan car, so small small rust behind rear rockers. Some surface rust. Complete original car. IF all works well, photos will be attached. My computer booted me on first attempt.
Rob R

That is sure a clean '59!
Someone sure took good care of the car to have it avoid the road salt rust that I remember from growing up in southern Michigan.

---John

Sharp car! And to survive a hostile enviroment like the Salty Roads of Michigan is a miracle...Good find!


John Q.

I love it.....Very clean!!!
Is that Sand Dune White??

Very nice.

Rob,

I love it too! So nice to see a 4 door sedan for a change and in great original condition

Ron

Thanks all, and Ron yes, I am happy to have the 4 door sedan with flathead. I don't want muscle, I want an original car. When I first looked at it, the seller said he had a lot of calls, but when they discovered she was a 4 door Post car, not hardtop, they passed on it. My luck. Hey Jason, not sure if that is color, it is a beige/tan. I picked up four hub caps today that appear to be 59 for 45 bucks. I have to compare them with catalog when I get home. Great find on the caps regardless. The brake parts and water pump showed up yesterday. I have enough parts to keep me busy for a while. Here in Michigan, it looks like I get one day of no rain on Saturday. After that, the manual transmission is the only unknown left. I am hoping gas tank will clean out.
Rob R

Hey all, got the transmission freed up. She is shifting nicely. Parking brake is back together. Seems to work. Won't know until all four tires are back on the ground. New brake an fuel lines coming this next week from Inline tube. POR 15 for tank lining also. Will put new front brakes back on today then move to rear brakes. I got the one stuck horn to free up with some penetrating oil and a rubber mallet. Looks like I will have this together for sure by Memorial Day Weekend. I am getting excited. Mo Excited every day. Will post new photos then.
Rob

Congrats, Rob, it will be nice to have her up and running!!

---John

Darn rear brake drums frozen on. I collapsed one trying to pull it. I guess a traditional puller is NOT the way to go. Ugg. This was the last of major projects. First real disappointment so far.
Rob

Rob, I like your Bi-Centennial Mich plate on the front of your 59. I still have mine from 1976 tucked away. Just like the arrangement and colors of it.

John Q.

Rob, I like your Bi-Centennial Mich plate on the front of your 59. I still have mine from 1976 tucked away. Just like the arrangement and colors of it.

John Q.

Yea, I like that plate also. I have a matching set of Michigan 1959 plates that I will try to get on the car. I have to send in writing the request to Lansing to get them approved. Have to send them photo of plates. Can't do this at local office. Don't understand that. I guess they figure I have to buy a generic historic plate first, then do the request and pay additional fees. I'm a cash cow.
Moooo
Rob

We have to do the same out here. Get Collector (or Horseless Carriage plates since the 59 is over 50 years young and cheaper too!) and then you can put on "Year of Manufacture" Plates if you have a set. Which I do out here in Colorado. Kinda double dipping on the fees to have to get both set of plates registered.

Kinda symatic's, it should be "Model Year of Manufacture" Instead of "Year of Manufacture" since alot of cars were built in the fall time frame the calendar year before the model year designation.( ie October of 1958 for a 59 Plymouth). But politicians can't think that fast...And maybe just simpler to do it the DMV way.

Tried to discuss that with the DMV clerk in a jovial manner and you thought I was the Boggie Man with the look she gave me.


John Q.

Howdy all. Good evening of work on the Belvedere. The Butler. I think the name is fitting. I got all the new brake lines in and hooked up. I got the rear brakes done. Darn those rusted up adjusters. Took some doin' but they are turning. Now I need rear drums and a good bleeding and the Butler will be one step closer to hittin the road. I have to put a new boot on the drive shaft. Any suggestions on that???? I have gas tank drying out now. A hair dryer stuck in one hole. Will put POR 15 in tomorrow after work. I have a new fuel line, but don't think I can get that in without removing the 3 body bolts. I would have to dismantle the interior to do that. I got the new center brake line in by removing just one bolt. The one under the back seat. Was able to jack and pry the body up enought to get the brake line in. It doesn't look like I will be that lucky with the fuel line. I am happy with the progress tonight. Thanks again all for the support and help.
Rob R.

Sounds like you are making some good progress!!

The front trunnion joint on these Mopar drivelines can be a bear to disassemble to replace the boot, you will need a 20 ton press to remove the retaining pin to do so.

Replacement boots are available from Andy Bernbaum, and possibly other sources such as Gary Goers, but I've heard conflicting reports as to there quality. On my '58 Dodge wagon, while taking an 8000 mile trip around the country, I had the boot split, and it slung all the grease out instantly. I packed grease into the joint, and wrapped it with saran wrap and duct tape to try to preserve it enough to get home.

Once home, I removed the makeshift repair, cleaned all parts, and used a split CV boot kit for a modern car that was small enough to work on the driveline. So far, after driving it 5000 miles, it has held up fine.

---John