'59 Plymouth Forum

Dick Koch wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2017 7:25 am ... page 11 has pictures of tail lights and sport deck with chrome door edge moulding.

Nice, Dick! Do you happen to know who made the product, and where you got it? For the tight inside radius of the taillights, did you have to nick the molding so it wouldn't bunch up?

D'Oh! The mirror gaskets are obviously not the same as the antenna gaskets, after having a look. While the Goers catalog says #291 antenna base gaskets are for Dodge, I reckon they must fit Plymouth as well:

So I'm going to order two of those.

I was out in the garage tonight, looking at the @#$#%$#!! antenna, and wondering how I could get that sucker off - when I realized, it was just behind the hood hinge. But there's no way I can get my hand up in there, even though it's open. Short of mangling the antenna - which I'm not opposed to doing - I don't think there's any way to get to it, except from the inspection plate. So, for the third time, just sayin'....

How can I get that sucker loose?

Dan - l got the door edge moulding at Pep-Boys. It comes in a roll and has an adhesive on the inside. It made all the turns on the taillights nicely with no cutting. Dont know who made it.
Dick

Thanks. And the antenna? Power grinder?

Did l miss something, power grinder???

Just trying to get your attention.

Here's the picture again, laying on the floor, looking up through the inspection plate inside the passenger side fender, at the bottom of the antenna.

What does it take, to loosen that sucker up? Short of grinding it off the fender?

Dan - There is a bezel at the base of the antenna that unscrews, then the antenna drops down thru the hole.
Dick.

Yeah. I take it, you mean a bezel on the underside of the fender, not the top side. There ain't no bezel that can be unscrewed topside. Certainly, the bezel that's flush with the curved surface of the fender, can't be turned:

So back to my original question. How can I reach up there and turn that bezel to loosen the antenna? Without removing the fender, which is something I'm hoping to avoid? I'd rather destroy the antenna, then have to do that.

The grey lookin piece above the chrome curved piece unscrews. Soak it with PB Blaster, then using a crescent wrench or channel lock pliers on the flats work it back and forth until it loosens. The nut on the underside is used to regulate the height of it protruding thru the fender.
Dick

Aha! The plastic cap took a hit, I'm afraid, but that's the only casualty. Once I screwed that off, the rest was easy - and the antenna dropped right out through the inspection plate.

Yes, the Sterling sisters drove by the Braille method - and once there was a front end collision, I was told, which accounts for the blue under the antenna grommet.

Thanks for the tip Dick! I'll be putting a little something extra in your paycheck.

I want to make sure I get what I need from Gary, while the gettin's good...

I noticed these in the catalog. My front seat is in the basement, I went and had a look - I don't know what they are, or where they go. Does anyone have a picture? How many are needed?

...and while I'm at it! I'll be ordering hose clamps. Speaking of hose clamps: As I look through posts, there seems to be a lot of confusion about which heater hose goes where (about seven times in posts, Matthew points out that hoses are connected incorrectly). And since my heater was shunted out, I presume because of a leak, my hose connections are a mess. So to clear the air - at least, for a 318 - here's an attempt to set the record straight.

These are the heater hose ports:

1) left thermostat port
2) right thermostat port
3) left heater core port
4) right heater core port
5) manifold port, rear of thermostat
6) manifold port, front of thermostat
7) left water pump port
8 ) right water pump port

Based on the size of the ports, it's clear that 8 connects to 6. What are the other connections? I'm guessing 2 goes to 3, but who knows. If someone can point to a correct picture on the forum, that's worth a thousand words!

First question as to part #299. They should be made of hard plastic and they are mounted on the bottom frame of the front seat back to keep the seat back from leaning to far back. If you want your seat back more upright ACE Harware has thick nylon washers that will work. I will leave the 2nd question for Matthew to answer.
Dick

Poking around on the Forum, I found this thread, that goes with these two pictures of Octie Ham's car:

And this thread, which goes with this picture:

So that clears things up a bit - I'll have to find a better picture of the plumbing at the thermostat and water pump. But here's my best guess:

left heater thermostat port - left heater core port
right heater thermostat port - left water pump port
right heater core port - rear manifold thermostat port
right water pump port - front manifold thermostat port

What do you say, Matthew?

I admit to being confused about this whole seat back stop thing. Maybe it was removed by the upholsterer who did the seats? They removed the ash trays from the seat backs... But, it looks to me that the side rails for the seat stop swivel inside a channel, that has a built-in stop. What else is needed to keep the seat back from swiveling further back?

I'm perplexed.

Answer to hose routing. Go to Dicks Convertible project page 18.
Me.