'59 Plymouth Forum

Wait, now I'm just being silly. Here's what I need:

A slight deflection will still deliver plenty of torque. I'm going with 1/2" for strength - and use an adapter for the 3/8" Irwin extractor. Three's the charm, but I won't get a chance to try until Labor Day - next weekend Mary Kay and I are going out of town for her birthday.

...And then! Ten weeks of a new Radiology Imaging System deployment through 5 hospitals, starting September 10th and taking me to Thanksgiving. Twelve hour days - three to five per week, depending on the hospital - and some Sundays. I will likely be dropping off the radar. But hey, keep in touch!

Haven't tried that trick yet, Rick - although I have in the past, my old man taught me. But even then, I'd need to be able to get a good grip, which has been in short supply. I will tuck that away for later. Tell me about candle wax, though - that's a new one to me.

Warm the stuck nut with a propane torch, does not need to be red hot. Touch the bolt and nut with the candle or bee's wax and loosen the nut, while still warm. I have seen rusted and stuck lug nuts removed using a butane lighter and candle wax method.

That's too kool for skool! I gotta try that - in about a week's time, will let you know how I make out.

The 'Old School', some times teaches us what we can use later in life. This application has saved me hours of grief. Mechanical engineering and industrial chemistry with a touch of earth science

Come Monday... It'll be alright
Come Monday... I'll be turning you tight

Apologies to Jimmy Buffett. No time between now and Monday, but maybe then - between the blue wrench, a candlestick and this sucka - we'll see some action.

Danke Gott I checked the weekend reservations! They are for Sunday night - we go away tomorrow, return Monday. So today was the day to work on Faulkner.

Damn. I could just not get a grip on that sucker, the extractor kept spinning off. I'm afraid the nut is just too far gone at this point.

I'm running out of options. I don't care about losing the bolt - it passes through the exhaust manifold. Here's my next thought:

Other ideas?

There is a tool called a nut extractor, it comes in a set, l think it goes up to 5/8". It is for removing rounded off nuts caused by laying on your back while car is on jack stands. Not sure but l think lts made by Irwin. Try NAPA or Harbor Freight.
Good luck,
Dick

Yeah - that's what I used, Dick. But it wobbles with the adapter I used. The torsion bar is in the way of a straight shot, and anything closer gives me no room for leverage. Now, if I pull the block...

What if you supported the engine under the pan and removed the motor mount bracket from the engine block???
Dick

Are you thinking that will give me clearance then, Dick? I dunno... I'll take a look next time I crawl under. But these suckers just arrived in the mail, and you know what they say: When you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Take a look, if not use the hammer.
Dick

Well, I took a look at removing the motor mount, but didn't see where that would gain me enough room to swing the breaker bar. I tried one more time with the blue wrench and candlestick, to no avail. So, I decided to cross the Rubicon, and try the nut splitter. Of course, there's no turning back...

This long horrible nightmare has come to an end. Now, back to rust encapsulation.

Looking good Dan !!! Mark