'59 Plymouth Forum

Dan the man, there is a 1 inch wide strap wrench that will fit. While you work the wrench get your vice president in charge of finance some nice leather gloves to work the other end. Twisting the tank may work you will need the VP to operate the strap wrench on the top end. It really is not as hard as you might think. The bottom lip of the trunk lid is notorious for rusting out and it looks like yours has a good head start. I would soak the area as good as you can with OSPHO let dry overnight.and then if possible use Eastwood encapsulator with the long 360 degree tube. Make sure the trim clip holes are sealed as good as you can with goop. Send the trim piece and l will give it a try.
Dick

Dan; I lifted the rear end up and dropped the tank out with the filler tube intact. Once on the ground just gave it A little wiggle and came right out. Mark

Dick Koch wrote:Send the trim piece and l will give it a try.

Dick - if Matthew finds a ticket for a reasonable price, it will be coming your way with the valance and splash shield, via Keij Express. Thanks!

Dan

55 survivor wrote:Dan; I lifted the rear end up and dropped the tank out with the filler tube intact. Once on the ground just gave it A little wiggle and came right out. Mark

Of course! Since my plan is to drop the tank, and not simply replace the grommet - if I drop the tank sideways (along the direction of the filler tube), the whole durn thing will come out, and I can work it out on the ground.

Thanks Mark!

Dan

I also prefer to drop the tanks with the rear of the car jacked up, then remove the filler tube. Some also have a clamp that must be removed, others the tube is held in by the o-ring alone. Best if the tank is emptied or nearly empty, as the o-ring neck is soldered into the tank body, and excessive sideways force will break the solder joint.

---John

Well, it turns out I didn't need a strap around the tube - nor, did I drop the tank before I removed the tube! Here's the sordid tale.

I pried out the upper seal under the gas door. 57 years of caked Idaho desert dirt! Cleaned up nicely, though...

Next, to empty as much gas as I can. Hey, I haven't done this since high school!

...er, that is, I remember a buddy of mine doing it in high school

When I got air in the line, I assumed it was mostly drained. I then backed off the nuts on the straps - with the straps still in position, I lifted the tank to judge its weight. Oh no There's still too much gas in there. Danke Gott for my Harbor Freight floor jack! I wedged a board up against the tank with the jack as centered as I could judge, and removed the straps. Doncha know, the filler tube popped out enough for me to get a handle on it, and easily twist it right out:

Then, with one hand on the tank for balance, I sloooooowly lowered the floor jack down until the tank was on the ground.

I was able to get the tank to high ground where I could tilt the gas to the corner, and siphon most of it out. The rest went to weed treatment along the side of the garage.

Wow! Talk about grungy and beat up on the outside. The inside is clean as a whistle though (although this picture doesn't show it well), and the sending unit looks great. Even the tank grommet was in great shape and very pliable! It must have been replaced somewhere along the line here, perhaps when they patched the trunk.

I cleaned the caked mud off of the sending unit area, and hand wire-brushed it - It looks clean, but perhaps not clean enough. I gave a couple taps to the tabs using a rubber mallet with a screwdriver, but it doesn't seem to want to budge. If I don't care about salvaging this tank (and I do intend to replace it, it would only be for someone else) I could bend up the keepers. Anyone have any thoughts here?

Man, take good care of that sending unit, the price on them has sky rocketed. The mallet as in rubber is the problem, use a claw or ball pin hammer and give it several good whacks. The ring is easily replaceable but bending the keepers is a no no. If I'm not mistaken the ring and gasket for the sending unit can be had at NAPA.
Dick

Dick Koch wrote:The mallet as in rubber is the problem, use a claw or ball pin hammer and give it several good whacks.

Dr. FiftyNine is right again - as usual!

Where did you get that sissy looking hammer. Jeeez!!!
Dick

Dick Koch wrote:Where did you get that sissy looking hammer. Jeeez!!!

Harbor Freight, where else?! I'm addicted now, just like you.

Father's Day discount!

Dan; just be careful cleaning/wire brushing,will produce sparks. tank is empty but fumes are still present.wash it out with soapy water,tipped it on end ,stuffed large rags in it,there is room when you get the sender out,let it set and air dry for A couple of days. It is good the inside is clean,sounds like it just needs A clean up. Mark

Dan also when you get the new sender match it up with the old one to compare the float level/arm bends etc. so it will read correct on the gage and will be the same as the old one when you install the sender,and also use A little lube on the o ring/band slips easier when you install it.Sometimes the arm is bent A little different. Also you may need A mounting strap bare spot or A separate ground wire as the original grounds with tank to body just saying cause it's getting painted.It will need to have A good ground. Mark

Thanks, Mark - the sending unit is actually fine, it's the tank that - while spic and span on the inside - is beat to hell on the outside:

It's got a couple of nice creases in it. And while I didn't take a picture, one upper corner is whacked in. I can't see trying to save this, when for $275 I can get a repro from Van's Auto, and that's before the discount they offer if you pick it up at Carlisle.

Dan; That's A good deal. My tank was good but my sender was gone. Straps and bolts were good as well. Mark