'59 Plymouth Forum

Once I get the radiator back in, I'm going to want to work on getting the old boy running right. Bob Hinds suggested I could have a bad coil -- it's the original one from the original 318. Anyone have a recommendation for a coil that will work well with the Petronix electronic ignition?

...and if anyone knows the NAPA part number for a Carter AFB accelerator pump kit, I'd like to know...

Thanks
Dan

P.S. stepdaughter's graduating from Cornell University this weekend! Off to her graduation, back Monday

Faulkner wrote: Anyone have a recommendation for a coil that will work well with the Petronix electronic ignition?

...and if anyone knows the NAPA part number for a Carter AFB accelerator pump kit, I'd like to know...

Lou Cortese -- the guy who recommended the Pertronix ignition to me -- is using a Petronix "FlameThrower". I'm going to order one too.

BTW, the NAPA part number for the 318 accelerator pump kit is CRB24044.

Dan

Dan,

Do you remember last year, when I had the same problem? Because a rough running engine I’ve tried to find the problem in the electrical system, pulled all spark plugs, readjusted the Distributor several times and tested the plugs on ground to se if a spark comes or not. Then I ordered a new ignition coil (you did that for me) with the result that the engine ran better - for about 5 minutes. Finally I found the real problem in the dirty carburetor. The car simply stood too much time. A Pertronix kit is with no doubt an upgrade for your engine, but check the carburetor too before you order a new coil. The coil isn’t a piece that gets destroyed easily.

Stefan

Besides I don’t wanna push to or from Carlisle.

sportfury1959 wrote: Besides I don’t wanna push to or from Carlisle.

With any luck, you'll only have to push the last ten feet. Just ask Ron, Matthew and Roger

Dan

Faulkner wrote:

sportfury1959 wrote: Besides I don’t wanna push to or from Carlisle.

With any luck, you'll only have to push the last ten feet. Just ask Ron, Matthew and Roger

Dan

I hope not, last year the last ten feet were straight ahead. If the last ten feet is through your back alley it will be a bit more pushing than ten feet before it is in the garage

But I really think that Stefan and Matthew will be able to get the engine running fine and Faulkner will make the trip to Carlisle and back without any problems. That is if we supervise of course, can we look down from the deck to see if they are doing what they have to do

Ron

dan i know there is a way to check resistance in the coil with a regular multimeter, but not sure exactly how to do it. coils will run worse when warm. when coils burn out it is because of too much heat, will be warm (hot in some cases) to the touch, even if engine is not. heat discoloration on case is also an indicator. pretty much these things work or don't. and any 12 volt coil will work, E70(borg warner) i know has screw terminals. runs about 15 bucks at o'reillys. --j

Thanks, Jeremy -- I broke down and got a Petronix "flamethrower" to go along with my electronic ignition. Now I just need to wait for Matthew to show up and install it, while I'm up on the deck drinking beer with Stefan and Ron!

Dan

lol. i saw a t shirt a while back with dale from 'king of the hill' on it and the caption was "will work for beer". hehe-j

I admire the way you guys are having fun with Faulkner repairs..
I took my car to a local shop to have the four barrel intake and carb installed. The shop owner took it upon himself to reroute the gas line and vacuum line. He lost one of the nuts so now the exhaust manifold leaks. And it runs like crap. He ordered the Pertronix but the wrong unit arrived (at twice the factory price) so I was glad to escape that bill. I will take the car to another shop this week. I need to find some steering parts or it will not be driveable when the Keijes arrive. The housepainter took over the garage, so the car is banished to the back yard. I am having one hell of a year so far..

My '59 started acting up a little recently - rough idle (had to put trany in neutral at every stop lite to ensure it kept running) and slight miss sometimes at speed. Then last week, I happened to take my wife and one of my sons' for a ride. They said they could hear a "hissing" sound coming from dash area. I couldn't hear a thing, but I suspected vacumn. Looked at it yesterday and found the 7 prong plug that goes to the push button heater control unplugged. Worse yet on the male end on the control itself, 3 little connectors were broken off and stuck in the female end. I had an extra heater control on shelf so hooked the plug to that and car runs perfectly. But even though the plug in matches I doubt if I can use that one because my car has AC and that one is for non-AC. So for now it's setting on the floor of the car plugged in and car runs perfectly. I had to use heater about 2 weeks ago on way to car show and heater worked good with the vacumn plug unplugged. Maybe I'll try and plug the female end and see what happens. I held my thumb over it trying to plug it and it didn't seem to help, but maybe it wasn't a good seal. So anyway, if your car is acting up, check (or have someone else with good hearing) for vacumn leaks. I almost was going to have my carbeurator buddy check my carb. I'll have to take my wife for a ride more often

Ooh! Thanks for the tip -- this is a problem that would show up if I throw a timing light on it. I was thinking I should do that anyway...

Dan

If you need assisitance rewbuilding that a/c vacuum switch, Jeff Carter will do it here in Seattle..

Roger and all - Right now on ebay (item # 1701 2238 8886) there happens to be the heater switch (non AC) I am talking about. Nice picture of it. Notice, on that switch there are 7 little connectors. On mine 3 of those connectors are broken off. So I have parts car heater switch temporarily hooked to the 7 vacumn lines. I'm thinkin of glueing 3 new plastic connectors to my broken switch with maybe JB Weld. My broken heater switch is a AC switch and parts car is not. I think they mount differently under dash and if ever I get my AC working I'm sure I would need the correct heater switch. Sure is a lot of fun almost standing on your head, getting stuck under dashboard and trying to avoid breaking steering wheel/horn ring (grabbing) and trying to avoid feet kicking headliner, and accidently pulling other wiring and components loose

Hey John,
The a/c switch installs just like the regular switch..If you think you can superglue the nipples back on, go for it! The re-builders either use teh back off another switch or drill out eh nipples and add larger ones, if I recall (and I could very well be wrong) I didnt look at the auction for price, but a rebuilt regular switch is nearly $75...

and yes, it is really hard on your neck to get under that dash...to complicate it further, my vision has changed and I cannot see clearly any thing that is at a certain distance..such as under a dash or under a car,.....very frustrating..