removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
I want to remove the gas tank on my Suburban and clean it. Is there anything I should know about getting it out and what is the best cleaning method ?
The local shops that I knew about that cleaned gas tanks are no longer doing them or are out of business.
I have looked into the tank with a flashlight and it doesn't look very bad.
Dick
The local shops that I knew about that cleaned gas tanks are no longer doing them or are out of business.
I have looked into the tank with a flashlight and it doesn't look very bad.
Dick
Re: removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
Dick,
When I had my '55 Plymouth, I dropped the tank and removed all kinds of junk! I bought a kit from Eastwood's (Google them), which galvanized any rust and then coated it. I was a younger man then! But if you're up for the challenge, check out the kit.
Dan
When I had my '55 Plymouth, I dropped the tank and removed all kinds of junk! I bought a kit from Eastwood's (Google them), which galvanized any rust and then coated it. I was a younger man then! But if you're up for the challenge, check out the kit.
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
Dick - I have a friend that had a very bad experience lining his own tank. He probably didn't follow the procedures very well! It must work because there are a lot of people that sell the kits. I have had two gas tanks done by my radiator shop. They clean and boil it out then they pressure test it for any pin holes and solder or braise any potential leaks and then they coat the interior. After five years Charleen has had no problems. All for $75.00, a kit costs $50 to %60 buck. Oh, Charleen is Christine's younger sister.
Dick.
Dick.
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
Re: removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
OMG! Yeah, what he said! If a shop will do that for 75 bucks, it's worth it.Dick Koch wrote: They clean and boil it out then they pressure test it for any pin holes and solder or braise any potential leaks and then they coat the interior.
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
99% of all station wagon tanks will have a rust hole on the bottom, as the fill neck on top of the rear fender invites moisture.
Remove the access panel in the left rear wheelwell, then remove the retaining bracket and strap. Disconnect the fuel line and sender wire, then drop the tank out. Sometimes it will be very stubborn, as dirt and debris will pack alongside the tank, and the O-ring at the filler neck may not want to let go easily. If that is the case, remove the screws that hold the filler neck in, and pry and wiggle it at the same time to remove it from the car and fuel tank.
---John
Remove the access panel in the left rear wheelwell, then remove the retaining bracket and strap. Disconnect the fuel line and sender wire, then drop the tank out. Sometimes it will be very stubborn, as dirt and debris will pack alongside the tank, and the O-ring at the filler neck may not want to let go easily. If that is the case, remove the screws that hold the filler neck in, and pry and wiggle it at the same time to remove it from the car and fuel tank.
---John
In rust we trust!
Re: removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
Dick, I mentioned before that the Sterling sisters "drove by the braille method". My gas tank is solid, but things they have driven over have, um, left an impression. Can they bang these out to some degree? Not that it has to be perfect... But, I'm wondering if I can get decent results from a radiator shop, or if I should just bag it and buy a repro.Dick Koch wrote: I have had two gas tanks done by my radiator shop. They clean and boil it out then they pressure test it for any pin holes and solder or braise any potential leaks and then they coat the interior.
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: removing and cleaning gas tank on a Suburban
Dan - I would ask the radiator shop what they would do other than cutting it open to repair and then welding it back up. What I would do is try to bang it straight thru the fill and sender holes using a round broom or shovel handle. If you can get it half way decent that way call it a day and use it like that. It has served you well in its present state so far. The only people that will know is you and me and whoever reads this thread. If you decide to replace it DO NOT throw it away.
Dick
Dick
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.