'59 Plymouth Forum

Hi,
I am nearly at the stage of putting all of the stainless moulding pieces back on to my car, would anyone that may have done this before have a list of all the different clip numbers and quantity required for a sport fury (complete set of everything from top to bottom), I have the catalogue from gary goers (is this the best source for these parts?) which lists them all but as some of mine were missing I am unsure the correct sizes and styles etc any help here would be greatly appreciated, cheers

Hi Dan - Other than Gary Goers your best source is Restoration Specialties & Supply , Inc. WWW.RESTORATIONSPECIALTIES.COM 814-467-9842 & 9882,
PO Box 328, Windber, PA 15963. I have had very good luck with these folks. Get thier catalog, its a must for much more than clips. There are several vendors on ebay: 67Cayne - ebay store: Fasteners Pluc. Althal - ebay store: Florida Auto Fasteners. Fastman - ebay store RJL Automotive Fastners.

If there was such a thing as clip numbers and quantity required we would all be dead residing in restoration Heaven. The good thing about Restoration Specialties is thier catalog has application info and actual size illustrations. GET THIER CATALOG, YOU WON'T BE SORRY.
Dick.

Hey Dick,

Thanks heaps for the reply, much appreciated, great link to the catalogue, I see what you mean its a must have I guess I will just have to go through the lot of mouldings and size up clips to suit, might have to guess which ones have clips and which ones have the threads with nuts too ahhhhh the joys of restoring!

Every year I go to Turkey Rod Run in Daytona, they have a booth and I go absolutely crazy. I bring samples and have no trouble matching what I need.
Dick.

Tom Fox pointed out to me that when one puts a molding on the car (using the spring clips), I was NEVER to rap on the molding to snap the clip into the hole as this would ever so slightly dent the trim. He showed me how he used pliers to squeeze each spring clip, easing it into place.
If you have any questions deciding whether to use speed nuts or spring clips, I am sure one of us can get you an answer.
And yes, the best method is to have a variety of clips on hand. The "universal" clips worked well for me when I ran out of the vintage ones.

rogerh wrote:Tom Fox pointed out to me that when one puts a molding on the car (using the spring clips), I was NEVER to rap on the molding to snap the clip into the hole as this would ever so slightly dent the trim. He showed me how he used pliers to squeeze each spring clip, easing it into place.
If you have any questions deciding whether to use speed nuts or spring clips, I am sure one of us can get you an answer.
And yes, the best method is to have a variety of clips on hand. The "universal" clips worked well for me when I ran out of the vintage ones.

Tried to tell Matthew this fact on my car...Oh well, we can take those dings out too matthew!

John Q.

OK, i'm ready to install the interior moulding around the back glass, windshield and along the sides at the edge of the headliner.
Questions are:

1. Do you install the moulding around the front and rear glass and then the side pieces or visa-vera.
2. Below are some pictures of clips. Where are they used??? Maybe the side moulding, inner and outer.

Reason for asking I did not remove these mouldings when I originally took the car to have the windshield replace back in 2006.

I have a reasonable idea looking at my green car on some of it, but it is totally impossible to see how the two front to back mouldings on each side are attached.

Thanks,
Dick.

having never owned a SF ht, I cant answer as to which interior trim pieces get installed first...side rails, or front and back glass.
I CAN tell you the first picture showing your clips (the little bow-ties) are used to install welting (foam-core upholstered door edging). I do not recognise the second set of clips so maybe they clip the side rails to the steel roof flange in some way.

Hey Dick,

Roger is right those aluminium clips in the second pic hold the steel roof rails in place but you'll find they will break
if you try to install them as they are use once only!! You might have to use screws or rivetts to hold the rails in place.

Jason - Thanks for solving the mystery. The only thing I have left to install is the outer roof rail moulding and it makes sense that those clips are for that, The new weatherstrip I got did not have holes in the rubber over the rear window to install with either clips or screws so I drilled the rubber to accomodate screws, but either way the rubber had to be drilled. I may try the clips first????????????????
Dick.

Just a little (or long) note on Restoration Specialties - a few years ago when they were at the Iola Car Show/Swap Meet. I inquired about door weatherstripping. At that time they didn't have any kits for '59 Plymouths. When I told them I had my car in the Show Field, one of their guys visited my car, checked out my current weather stripping, making notes. Then we went back to their swap site. He gathered up the proper stripping, went back to my car and actually installed new weather stripping on one of the doors, and gave me the weather stripping for the other door... all this free of charge. Because now they had the correct type and measurements to make up a kit for '59 Plymouth 2-dr hardtop.

Another time at Iola, I purchased from Restoration Specialties a couple pieces of "cowl board"....that stiff cardboard stuff used in the center headliner panel and kick panels. Due to the size of it, trying to get it back to my campsite through the crowds and shuttle wagon, they recommended I come back after hours when crowds were gone. They said, just knock on motorhome door. Nice people.

Fins 59 - I agree, they have always been most helpful. About the clip in the 2nd picture above, I found them in Restoration Specialties 2005 Blue Catalog on page 121. It's #2564 for Ford, Lincoln & Mercury, but they could have other applications. I tried to see if I could use them on the roof rail weatherstrip but couldn't see how they would ever work. They were too big to fit into the slot so I used stainless steel screws. The passenger side rear window goes up and down with no problem but the drivers side grabs and pulls the rubber. I applied silicone grease to the rubber so now it goes all the way but is way to tight with a lot of strain on the regulator. Now that I think about it they could have been used for the welting, all I know is they were in with all the other clips for the car but I don't remember where they came from.
Dick.

Dick - I did not have to do my roof rail weatherstripping so know little. If I understand correctly, you're saying that your passenger front window rolls up into a channel type WS like your rear window does and front window is geting caught in channel.????

On my car, only rear window rolls up into channel....front window has no channel. The channel part stops when weatherstripping meets rear edge of front window. Front window glass frame rolls up against WS, not into. It's like the outer side of channel piece has been removed (or not added during mfg) and only inner piece is there to seal.

I can't see any clips holding WS in. I can see where you would probably need them for the rear window channel but on front window, adhesive would do the job.

I checked my 4-dr '59 and that has channels that all windows roll up into but that glass does not have the stainless frame on top of glass.

I found the diagram that the RS guy made when checking out my car. He lists all the numbers for the side and bottom WS but does not show anything for the top roof rail piece.

I apoligize for not making myself clear. You are correct the rear window rolls up into a channel, the front window rest on the outside of the weatherstripping. The new WS mounts over a metal strip and you screw the WS and outside moulding on the car at the same time. The new WS also has holes in it that match the holes in the metal strip and the outside moulding.
Dick.

The WS with metal strip and the outer moulding as an assembly screw into these slots.
Dick.