My hood had a engine under hood silencer pad on it when I got it. It was a pain to scrape the remnants of it that I could. Still was very rough and bumpy when I had it painted. So I have to put it back on for sure.
Question is that I am ready to 3M adhesive the pad back on the underside with the hood on the table and trying to remember if the solid side goes to the engine and the fuzzy side gets glued to the underside of the hood.
This is what I remember how it looked like but want to make sure that I am doing it right. For those who have this pad what is your opinion or guestimate on what side gets glued?
I'm expecting my son and his wife for dinner today, so I've got some preparations to make - but when I take Bode out for his constitutional, I'll take a pic with my Crackberry and hopefully that will be good enough.
Of course, Andre and I could have done it all wrong! But hopefully our example will encourage you to make the same mistake.
John, I feel the finished side is down, but after a few years it will look like the other side. I like the non-silenced air cleaner sound at full throttle in the naked hooded engine bay! To me this is almost spititual.. Happy New Year!
Thanks Dan, I was scouring the Showcase looking at everyones car and could not tell. When I take pictures of peoples 59's at car shows, I never seem to dwell on how the silencer pad was installed, if it even one was installed.
Rick, I would not have installed the pad either but the hood I have did have one and it was a "beach" to try to get the pad remnants off so I figured Ok, I will get a replacement pad when the time comes. Well, since it is so cold outside, I went to the basement to do something car oriented and figured it would be a good time for putting the pad on. Then indecision hit me on which way to install.
John, I was able to feel under the one corner, that indeed the one side was fuzzy (and not smooth on both sides as I had mis-remembered). I don't know if it's wrong or right, but we glued the fuzzy side up; but I think that it must be right. Fuzzy side down would tend to collect a lot of dirt...
Oh, and FWIW, I sprayed the pad with 3M adhesive, not the hood, and Andre and I carefully (but, quickly) set it in place. We practiced first! That stuff dries so very quickly - and once it touches the surface, you ain't movin' it.
Faulkner wrote:Oh, and FWIW, I sprayed the pad with 3M adhesive, not the hood, and Andre and I carefully (but, quickly) set it in place. We practiced first! That stuff dries so very quickly - and once it touches the surface, you ain't movin' it.
Dan
John, have your wife around to make a video so we can all learn from it, most fun would of course be the instruction video of how not to do it But mind your language as I learned today that I can edit text, but I probably can't edit the spoken word.
Ron, I would have to get Pam down in the Mopar Parts Grotto (basement) where it is a mine field for someone with Pam's disabilities, So that is a negative on the video part. My daughter Katie is at work, and Jack is still recovering from his Gall Bladder surgery last Thursday. My Beagle is useless on taking video. Something about opposing thumbs....But I could take digital pictures of the different stages of installation if it will help someone else when their time comes to do the same.
Since I have both fenders and the hood in the basement waiting for final installation. I have place the hood upside down on a cardboard table (actually a plasic one) so I won't have to fight gravity on a hood that is installed on its hinges. I have the outline of the perimeter of the old pad residue I could not get off. So location of the pad will be a snap.
Thanks Dan for the picture of your car. Fuzzy side up to be glued is how I will roll with this.
John If you really wanted to do an informative video... I would volunteer to help and I also could translate the mechanics french. P.S.I had a 58 that had spring or strut type pad retainers, there were holes drilled in the core where they attached.
Rick, we will have to do another Instructional video on another subject. I applied the 3M adhesive to the insulator pad and installed it with the hood upside down on a table. I have boxes weighing down the pad to put pressure on it till the adhesive drys.
Rick, I will need your assistance in the next couple of weeks and maybe my son jack too, to assist in installing the hood on to the convert. I believe 3 guys should do it without chipping or scratching anything. And as long as the fenders are off we don't have to lift over them. Final adjustment can wait till the fenders go on. To entice you, I will chill a 6 pack of Diet Pepsi or the Adult beverage of your choice to assist me. (An offer most mortals can't refuse!)
I did take a couple pictures of me gluing but really nothing informative about them. I have the type of hood that does not have the underneath support structure of the long transverse spring rods attached to welded pads. Don't know if people are aware of the two styles that were made on our 59 Hoods. The the two hoods style are the same except for this "anti-oil canning" support to the underside on one of the types. Don't know which one came first or if they were made in two different stamping plants at the same time or a production change took place in the model year to add or delete them (cost savings). Even my father who was a Chrysler Stamping Engineer back in 59 could not recall this change or reason for it.
Here are some pictures of my underside of my hood with the old glued on residue that I could not get off that we painted over with the Turquoise (59 Spring color) I did not want to go the correct argent gray color underneath since this will be a driver car (and I was to lazy to mask and paint again!)
You can also see my style of underhood bracing is the vesion with out the Welded pad/spring rod style that prevents oil canning of large un-supported steel area's. Both are correct production styles.
I then put down on both surfaces 3M adhesive. For some reason it looks like yellow snot and other areas just yellow adhesive. I then positioned the pad using the outline of the perimeter from the residue of the former pad and then but some boxes on it to hold it down till it cures.
I went down and checked and the pad firmly attached (as Dan said it would be quick acting adhesive)
I have also put a clear picture of Tom Fox's beautiful Belvedere convertible which shows the spring rod support with out a sound deadening pad applied, just for a comparison of my style with out the support rods.
John Q.
you can see the old outline of the sound deadening pad in the paint. No spring rod support underneath.Applying the 3m adhesivePad is placed using old location outline and fits where the old pad went.Spring rod style of support on Tom Fox's show winner!
nicely executed.
I hear that Denver has not had much snow to date. Is this current storm having an affect on you, John, other than having to make room for the wife's car
John; Everyone in the family has volunteered to help! I think the beverage note was noted. I see the rod struts in the picture I wrote about earlier. The 60 convertible that was down the block had like furniture wave springs as a pad retainer, I wish I had taken some pictures. P.S. the storm here was nothing, but the near zero degree F. temps are hurting today. The wife's War Wagon battery was failing so I installed a new one today at 1 degree this morning. War Wagon 1984 Dodge W350 also Known as BAMf.
But mind your language as I learned today that I can edit text, but I probably can't edit the spoken word. 
