'59 Plymouth Forum

Hello all
I am new here but have several Plymouth's ranging from 34 to now 59 lots of 48's. Just a hobby not a job.
I recently got a hol of a 59 4 door plym with 6 cyl engine and automatic. Needs a valve job-in the process of removing engine and trans now. I assume removing both is easiest. Am I correct?
also anyone know if the valve seats on the 6 cyl are hardened as they were in the 40's and 50's earlier engines?
Additionally does anyone know where I can get a "spare tire ornament" for the trunk? And by the way what is the proper name for it ? Also anyone know the procedure for disconnecting the e brake cable from e brake at drum? I am assuming you remove drum then some how disconnect the cable/
Al help greatly appreciated
Lou Earle
Dublin Ga

Lou, I was checking on old posts and noticed that no one had responded to your inquiry. I will ask a Mopar friend who has some knowledge of the harden valve seats question. I did not even think they were hardened back then, with leaded fuel and all, But I will ask my mechanic friend if he knows the answer to this question.

The fake spare tire assembly on the trunk,(for those equipped with it) is called a "Sport Deck". (aka, Toliet seat spare or flat faux continental tire kit) It was on Plymouths models,Imperials had it stamped into the trunk, not as a seperate piece like the Plymouth. I think De Soto had this option to, but called a Flite Sweep. The Sport Deck stampng had an anodized inner "pie' tin with a further round flat metal stamping with a rectangular Plymouth Insignia set onto that.So three parts make up the Sport Deck. Two bolts and nuts retain the assembly to the trunk lid. This Sport Deck does pop up on E-Bay from time to time, but this is a hard part to find most of the time.

On the parking brake drum, Yes, you have to take off the larger retaining nut in the center of the drum assembly to remove the outer drum, and it should be evident how to disconnect it from the break shoes. It is very similar to the rear axle drum breaks on Later model cars. I have only done it once, so I am not by any means an expert The factory manual is pretty good in this area. Other members have more experience at this removal. Hopefully they can add some advice to you.

hope this helps a little...

John Q.

Sorry Lou, I too missed your initial post.
It has been a long time since I worked on the "heavy" stuff (removing engines, etc), but I agree that the best way to deal with an engine rebuild is to remove the engine and tranny as a unit.
I looked up information on disconnecting the E-brake cable at tranny.
"Loosen the guide clamping bolt a.k.a. cable clamp bolt).
Remove the adjusting screw cover plate.
Pry the ball end of the cable up and out of the operating lever slot with a screwdriver.
Remove the control cable from the guide."
Of course don't have the brake set when you attempt this!
As to the valves, I thought that people PUT IN hardened seats when rebuilding engines, due to the fact that lead is no longer added to fuel. I have a friend with a 6-cyl powered Suburban..he presently is having the engine rebuilt. I will ask his advice on engine removal and valves.

You are also gonna have a challenge when you go to disconnect the transmission shift cable at the transmission. I believe Tom Fox posted a nice explanation of how to do this...

...and as for locating a Sport Deck, your first call should be to John Fowlie of Big M Automotive in Williams, CA. bigm@calusanet.net

or try www.bigmauto.com

my information is faulty...bigmauto@colusanet.com might be his correct e-mail.

Turns out my friend is NOT having a 6-cyl rebuilt. (sorry, I have a load on my mind these days).
He does warn you that re-doing the valves may just point up that the engine needs a ring job, but you'd know about all that.
He sent the following links for finding people who know all about the Mopar straight 6's.
www.vintagepowerwagons.com
www.dodgepowerwagon.com
www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/wipengineframeset