'59 Plymouth Forum

Daniel Tunell wrote:I'm working on the rust that is on my car, it not much but i must fix it! But my problem is that the rust is right behind In front of the wheel well! ...do you know anyone that has a parts car, that want to sell that part to me, but only if it is rust free and nice condition!

Does anyone know of a fabricator that could provide this part for Daniel -- or know of someone with a parts car that could cut it out? Daniel includes this picture...

Dan

Hmm... I wonder if these will do (2-door as well as 4-door):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0325177267

Dan

Dan, the dog leg shown on that Ebay item is for 4 doors only. (it shows the wheel opening and the door jamb area, 2 doors would not show that being so close together) I was able to buy partial original quarters for my needed area from an Ebay guy a year ago, I will have to look up from whom to see if he still has some more.

Does Daniel only need the right side? because I have a partial full repair panel for the Drivers side that I did not need... I just cut it down for what I needed to use. I he needs that I can give him a great deal...

I have attached a picture of the area in front of my passenger side rear front wheel opening that went to the B pillar area and wrapped around inner door jamb of that B pillar jamb.

Is this the area he wants to repair? How high up does he need to go?

John Q.

Here is a better picture of how the leading edge of the patch panel fitted into the lower part of the B pillar jamb area. I did not have to go that far as I did, since the rust was just forward of the wheel opening where the Stone guard went, but by going further forward with the patch gave me a good point to anchor the patch inside the jamb. and less body filling.

I belive this is what Daniel is trying to repair...

John Q.

Denver 59 Fin Convert wrote:Here is a better picture of how the leading edge of the patch panel fitted into the lower part of the B pillar jamb area. I did not have to go that far as I did, since the rust was just forward of the wheel opening where the Stone guard went, but by going further forward with the patch gave me a good point to anchor the patch inside the jamb. and less body filling.

I belive this is what Daniel is trying to repair...

John Q.

Thanks, John. My Swedish is not too good, so I have great difficulty in communicating with Daniel! (I anglicised his communication as best I could.) But I will point him to this thread, and ask him if you can be of help to him. Thanks for your comments!

Dan

Hello John Q!

My names is daniel and ther is i that have problem with the rust! It is only the right side that is defect and need to be fixed! The link that someone sent me on ebay does notfit on my car do you meen? The part on ebay are for a 4dr do you meen? I sent a better photo on the part i need soo you understand!

I hope you understand me!

Thanks Daniel Tunell sweden

Daniel, I have no problem understanding your written English. Can you tell me how far foreward in (mm/inch) from the wheel well lip you need? If it is just 70mm or less, then you can use the part you see on ebay and trim it off for the importand part, the wheel lip area, and then discard the rest of the patch.

The forward part of the patch panel is the part that won't work on your car. But the rear wheel lip part of the patch panel will.

Even if you need more metal area, you can put a secondary sheet metal rolled formed patch in next to this part that has the wheel lip, to fill in any space missing.

Hopefully this helps...

John Q.

Daniel, I have sent a request from the Ebay seller for more info on the dogleg patch panel he has for sale, mostly to get dimensions from the wheel lip forward. To see how much room there is cover.

I guess any of our members who have a 4 door 59 Plymouth can help too if they could measure the same area on there car. Needed is the distance from the wheel lip to the begining of the rear door Jamb on a 4 door. That would equal the Horizontal area of the repair patch.

John Q.

I did this same repair 5 years ago (it'll be 5 years this spring) on my 2-dr Sport Fury. I did the dog leg behind drivers door and part of rocker panel up to the seam (just behind drivers door) using new metal. I cut rocker panel to fit as needed. Can't remember if I used 2-door or 4-door dog leg. It seems I used 4-door leg and cut away unneeded part. I cannot weld sheet metal without warping or burning through (I have a cheap wirefeed) so I researched and used 3M PANEL ADHESIVE. It comes in a 2-tube pack and you use a special caulk gun type applicator that mixes the product as it comes out of tubes so there is no room for error. Important point here that the repair is holding up fine after 5 years. Last summer at a car show I pointed out repair to a fellow who owns a body shop and he could not detect repair and stated his body shop does very little welding on repairs and is using the panel adhesive(new and older cars).
A little detail - I cut away old metal - "glued" backing plates to good metal in cutout area - cut new metal to fit - drilled small holes in new metal and backing plates - applied adhesive - attached pieces with sheet metal screws (1/8" I think) to temporarily hold in place while adhesive dried - about 24 hrs later, REMOVE screws and fill in holes with adhesive. Apply very light layer of body filler - sand and paint. I had to paint entire bottom of car from side trim to bottom so paint would match. I also repaired a small area on pass side behind rear wheel and had to paint entire bottom on that side also from front to back to get a good match. Nice thing about this repair is that you have access to inside through back seat area and trunk area. I think the most helpful tip is about the holding of new pieces with sheet metal screws while adhesive dries. I couldn't figure out how to do this until a body shop man tipped me off how they do it. Sorry for long post. (I don't post that often so have to make up for that )