Marks winter of "59"

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:12 am

Dan;Thanks for the insight and pics,your dash came out good and I will probably go that way.The windshield trim removal should be A piece of cake for removal as there will be no headliner and all clips/fasteners will be exposed.Been doing lots of bagging, labeling,organizing.I attach all hardware in zip lock bags with notes and sharpie pen with items,the upstairs of my garage is starting to look like an assembly line. Mark

Dick Koch · Post by **Dick Koch** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:15 am

Mark - For what it's worth, the reason I got started on restoring Charleen was the windshield needed replacing so when I painted the dash in the car that made it relatively easy. When I restored the convertible the dash in it was trashed so I sandblasted and painted the one from my parts car. It made it real easy to clean and paint the backside, install the instrument panel, pushbuttons, radio etc. etc. When I painted the firewall I masked it the same as Dan.
By the way your four door (compared to mine when I started looks brand new) looks to have been white from the factory, are you going to keep it red. I think you have a standard headliner not the cardboard type. If so and you need headliner bows I saved the one out of my 4 dr. parts car. Let me know.
Dick.

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:14 am

Dick; The car was indeed white(xx code)was from Las Vegas,built at the LA plant,dry weather.I think it sat out while in Idaho(10 or 12 yrs.) because I see lots of tree leaves,spinner seeds from maple trees not native to Las Vegas in the mouldings and various nooks and crannys.Yes it is going to stay red(flame) and white,and I am painting the dash and interior trim red to match as well.I should be ok with the headliner bows,thanks anyway,I am going to mark them as they come out right side,left,front to back,so they go in the same way. Mark

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:03 am

Got some more done.Getting closer to paint,I would like to take the fuel tank out.It does not look too complicated,any tricks to the animal?The windlace in the picture is different,the one on the left went in and around the front door,the one on the luft is from the rear.Why did they use two different styles?Factory mistake?I am positive it was never replaced(fasteners are eaqualy rusted,middle sponge is dry toast,headliner never been out) mystery I guess.Far shot of the Buick(the other woman,hence my screen name "55 SURVIVOR").The front windshield top edge is different than the 2 door hard tops,it is kind of A visor,and different clip fasteners,"bowed".The front and rear glass edging looks very good,minimal rust,the gaskets had to be cut,and removed the outer inner section.They were very hard,no flex what so ever,it just broke apart inches at A time,had my brothe help me lift them out. Later Mark

Dick Koch · Post by **Dick Koch** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 3:42 pm

Mark - As far as I know the windlass should all be the same. I got mine from Gary Goers, he sells by the foot. Make note, the front door windlace is held in place at one point by a piece of metal abouts 3/4" wide and three inches long and two screws where the dash meets the side panel and where the door jamb goes from vertical to horizontal. The dash needs to be dropped down so you can apply that piece of metal to the windlace otherwise the windlass will keep falling down as in Charleen because I didn't do it right. Now that I've thoroughly confused you and you need pictures let me know.
Dick.

Post by **Faulkner** » Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:40 pm

Dick - I need those pix!! Post, please...

Dan

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:55 am

Dick; The curved area where my dash meets the side panel the windlass is held in by small brad clips.With the dash bolts out there it enough room to install those clips with needle nose pliers to the margin of fabric on the windlass. There is A small retainer moulding below at the floor it has A channel in it to secure the lower kick panel as well. Dan wants some pics I will check them out too post what you have thanks!! Mark

Dick Koch · Post by **Dick Koch** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:03 am

Mark & Dan - Go to SHOW YOUR RIDE, - DICK'S CONVERTIBLE PROJECT, - PAGE 17. Lots of interesting pictures scroll down to picture 43. Look closely and you will see the piece of metal with two screws at the top bend. With the dash and moulding installed it's impossible to see it without taking it apart. A little further down is a discussion where I talk about a "Dash Delima". Hope this helps.
Dick.

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:20 am

Dick ; I can see in your pics the windlass "snaking" around where the dash goes , the curved portion of the dash has 1 large screw to take out. I then took the bolts out at the windshield and it moves enough out of the way to get at the windlass clips I think there are 3 or 4 of them.When I install the windlass I can mark and punch A hole in the marginal tab of the windlass with A bent finish nail and install the securing clips with needle nose .Should be plenty of room with the dash "loose".Is your windlass held in with screws , rivets ,small clips? I know the first thing that goes in is the windlass , before the headliner and trim go in. Thanks Mark

Dick Koch · Post by **Dick Koch** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 1:19 pm

Mark - I'm not sure but I think I used stainless screws with stainless washers. The metal clips should be OK also. If you can install enough screws and can get to them OK you shouldn't need the metal piece. I used screws because the dash was out and easy to get to them. With needle nose pliers you will have to use the clips. Gary Goers has the clips but they are plastic. I used some of them and they work good.
Dick.

Matthew Keij · Post by **Matthew Keij** » Mon Oct 12, 2015 2:08 pm

You're doing a great job!!!

I might have a few clips for the wind lace, I can send you a pic if you want.

Did we decode your plates?
Looks like your car was all iceberg white (paint code XX)

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:29 pm

Got some more done,It might be going to paint in A week or two.There is not much more I can do,I took all the glass out of the doors,and removed what was left of the cat whiskers,and the glass guides.I mounted the skirt brackets and need to remember to send them off to paint as well.All looks good as far as rust,the only trouble I had was the drip rail trim.It wanted to roll (sardine can lid) no matter how gingerly I removed it inch by inch.Can that trim be had if I need two of them,I think mine are ok but worst case would the trim from A 69 charger or roadrunner be the same,might be just A length difference,that trim for those can be had.I know some things are similar as in the headliner install methods (5 bows,rear retainer wires,shark teeth on the front and sides). I'll bet the gutter width is the same,I'll need to check the length.Worst case it can be left just painted I guess. I also dropped the gas tank,I want replace the sender and seal the inside,it came out like A piece of cake. Later Mark

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:41 pm

Matt; sorry I didn't get back to you,got in between posts somehow I missed it. You should have mine in your data base,about 3yrs. ago vin # M264105576 .Can all the clips and trim hardware be had? Is there anything that I won't be able to get or need to improvise? Later Mark

Mark Merritt · Post by **Mark Merritt** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:22 pm

UPDATE!!!! PAINT JOB!!! &*((&^%$$###@#$^&&(*(^&%$$$$$$$$$$$))(^%^%$$#%^&,you know, what Dick said. Seriously I got the car back A week ago,my body guy crapped out,to busy with collision and deer hits,it sat at his shop,got the doors off and stripped,and with the onset of snow season it will be dead in the water for months,if at all.He bought the shop and bit off more than he can chew.Been checking around and have some other sources.Even called "Bob Ore Restorations" He is about 3 miles from my house,advertises in Hemmings.He would not even throw out A number,just hand over the check book. Options 1.find someone good and reasonable 2.Hit the lottery 3.Wait for summer and do it myself(would help if I was retired like someone else I know).Looks like it's going to take time!!! Mark P.S. A shot of my garage upstairs,lots of parts,all bagged and labeled,the doors look great,was thinking do A media blast and prime.I have someone good for just that.

Dick Koch · Post by **Dick Koch** » Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:55 pm

Mark - l feel your frustation, since it may be awhile and if you have not already done it I suggest you wipe everything including painted panels with OSPHO to prevent further rusting. Do not use on aluminum or stainless.
Dick

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