'59 Plymouth Forum

Dick - If you haven't done it, now would be a good time to replace the old studs in your rear wheels with new modern ones. I did this to mine several years ago. Can't remember exactly but I think you drill out the old ones and replace them with new ones. That way you don't have to use a puller ever again to pull off rear drums. And you don't have that "left turn" on one side and "right" on the other. This procedure is covered somewhere. I think over on the Forward Look site.

Couple of pitchuhs, finally getting some paint on the car, painted the roof, used white paint left over from the Desoto. Lots of orange peel but enough paint so will wet sand and buff nicely. Going to wife's mothers memorial in New Orleans next thursday then to Aberdeen, TX. to pickup daughters camper trailer so I will wait until I get back to paint the red.
Dick.

OK, mo pitchuhs, almost ready for color, then I can install steering, dash components, power brakes, etc. I had half gallon of white paint leftover from the Desoto so used it on top. I'ts not bright white but white enough. The body has been Osphoed, one coat epoxy primer, blocked, one coat 2k urethane primer, blocked, what you see is the last coat of 2k primer. Will light sand with 400 paper then color red.
Dick.

I couldn't stand it anymore, I had a strong desire to check out the RED I picked so I painted a few pieces to see what it looked like. I'm happy, happy, happy. I've kinda somewhat mastered my new Eastwood Concours HVLP gun and the paint (single Stage) laid out rather nicely. In case you are interested to get 10 psi at the nozzle the inlet pressure at the gun has to be 29 psi. make sure your desicant filter is before the gauge. I decided to complete the engine and engine bay before painting the dash and body.

Going to: Replace motor mounts, water pump, new belts and hoses, freeze plugs, timing chain if needed, clean oil passages, remove all old paint from engine and repaint, red engine, black pullys and fan, gold valve covers. Did a compression test (by the way make sure the oil pressure sending unit is installed, oil all over floor) Manual say 125 to 165 psi, my readings were 135 to 160 so I'm going to leave it alone for now. Will sandblast the manifolds then paint them, then paint the engine and put back together, then paint the body, install dash, power brakes and steering.
Whew,
Dick.

Holy Mopar, you are a multi-talented powerhouse!
In retrospect, I wish I had been as thorough with the resto as you, but for me it came down to money, and as you are feeling, a desire to get it done!

You're making some excellent headway there, Dick! Man, that red sure is bright, it'll really stand out!

---John

Dick The red looks great and it is a single stage? Wow, I think it might have been easier for me if I had done a single stage instead of my two stage.

Keep up the good ...No Great work on your car! We all like more pictures when you can post some more.

My next restoration I am sending down to South Florida! You can "Pimp my ride" in about two weeks right?

John Q.

OK - for the novices among us: What does single vs. twin stage mean? There's the primer coat, and to finish it off, the clear coat(s) -- correct? Does single stage mean one coat of color, and twin two coats?

Educate me!

Dan

comment has been retracted

My car is a two stage paint as is most modern vehicles with a Base coat of color followed by numerous coats of clear coat, The more the merrier.

I rushed my painter last fall and he did the base and only two coats of clear. I will put a couple more coats of clear on soon and then wet sand the clear to get ride of imperfections (no not me in the drivers seat!_)

John Q.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Two stage paint system is a base coat (color) with a flat finish (easily repairable) with 3 to 4 coats of clear as the finish coat. This is then wet sanded and buffed to get rid of orange peel. It's repairable but not easy for the amature painter. Single stage paint system is at least 3 coats of paint that is easily repairable and already has the gloss finish. You still will have to wet sand and buff to get rid of any orange peel. Single stage doesn't have UV protection but since our cars are outside so little it doesn't make much difference. Some mix the last coat of single stage with clear half and half for UV protection. Base coat clear coat has UV protection and will give a deeper look to the metallic paints but it doesn't make much difference with solid colors like white, black, red or blue. I use the single stage because it is easily repairable. I used the most expensive PPG concept single stage on my Desota and had nothing but problems, $400.00 per gallon. This red is BASF Limco 3, #CMC592 wich is supposed to be Viper Red. Cost $175.00 per gallon. The Mix Ratio is 8 - 1 - 4. 8 parts paint, 1 part activator, 4 parts reducer. I still can't believe how easily it laid out. It's recommended the 1st. primer coat be Epoxy, then at least two coats 2K urethane primer for blocking, then finish coat. Either way the paint will last a long time when you consider the original paint is still on my Green car and it's nowhere as sofisticated as today's paints.

John - When you come to Florida make sure you car is finished because after this one I'm goin cruzen.
Dammit Roger, I hate it when you make a retraction!
Dick.

Thanks for the explanation, Dick. If I make it down Florida way, I want to go cruzen witchoo.

Dan

just means I posted something before I thought it thru.......

Dick, thanks for the mix ratios and the ingrediates to use in a single stage paint application. Very Helpful!


John Q.

John - Those ratios are for the paint I'm using. Every paint Mfg. and type of paint has a different ratio: for instance the PPG single stage I used was 4:1:1. Now that I think about it, I should have gone 4:1:2.
Dick.