'59 Plymouth Forum

Well, you guys really have me confused now. I put AAJ front disc brakes a double pot MC and a proportioning valve on the car I am now restoring, it is a non power brake car. I plan on installing power brakes. I may be wrong but I think the pedal mechanism and mounting plate is different for cars with power brakes, anyway I got a setup that was for power brakes on e-bay. Now I will have to do more research to make sure. I'm attaching a picture of what I have now.
Dick.

Rick, If we can find one of these here in Denver or if you have one, Maybe we can mock fit it in my Convertible. I don't have the front clip, engine installed or the dash frame in.

Maybe we can hook up this weekend an trial fit. Or at least hold it up there and see if it interferes with anything. Doubtful you would need the vacumn can supplement on the inner fender with this set up. It takes away the 59 look but it would be nice to make yet another exception for safety.

Let me know if you have one. You are only 15 mins away from me.

thanks!

John Q.

Dick, you have what I was going to do to my car. it looks like the low profile MC everyone has talked about. and the proportioning valve (adjustable) for front back balance too.

I think that would work with the power brake bracket and brake assembley to put a period correct PB booster above.

I will see if Ricky (Rick) version will work. Your version will look more original off course.


John Q.

at the risk of repeating myself, the only idfference between power brake mounting plate and NON- power brake mounting plate is that the NON- pb plate does not have the booster hole.

Thanks Roger. That was my conclusion also. The fire wall has the opening for booster rod and I actually was able to get in a position to see what appeared to be the receiving mechanism for the stock booster actuating rod. Several hours later I was able to extricate myself from under the dash-very dehydrated but none the worse for wear!!

Roger, I agree with you and Steve, there is not a differnce to the Brake Reinforcing Plate except for the booster mounting holes and the opening part that applies the leverage action to the booster form the pedal. One could easily modify that part to accept a booster addition.

John Q.

There is one other difference! The rod into the master cylinder on the non power brake set up is solid with no adjustment, the power brake set up has an adjustable rod. When I installed the 2 pot MC I was unable to blead the brakes because the rod was approx. 1/4 inch to long. I used a ford adjustable clutch push rod for a while until it collapsed. (scary). I straightened the clutch rod and cut out a section in the middle of the solid stock rod to the same length and them welded the two pieces together. Walla, worked wonderfully.
Dick.

Oh, by the way, my new setup has the adjustable push rod.
Dick.

Merci beau coup!!!!

Dick, thanks for the extra mention of the push rod part.

Walla? You must mean Voila`, I thought you were from Canjun country? But I do like Walla! Kinda Like what Steve said above but in Colloquial English it is "Marcy! Butter cups!" (5 years of French down the drain!)

John Q.

Help - I think I may be losing it. I cut my non-power brake rod prior to threading my shortened ends do make an adjustable rod. After I threaded the pivot end I noticed for the first time it had a few degrees offset. Dick help me out here. Does or did your rod have an offset??? Or did I create one in the threading process somehow. I'll attach a picture of my butchered rod.

Uh-oh, something is wrong there

Dick-In rereading your thread you simply cut out about 1/4 inch and welded the two pieces togeather on the non-power rod. Is that right, but what did you mean by "straightening it out"??

Steve - There is no offset, the adjustable and non adjustable rods are straight. The Ford clutch rod I used was adjustable, it basically was a 1/4 threaded rod that could not take the pressure needed in a non power brake system. One day I was a block from my house and the rod bent and doubled over when I stopped at the end of the block. I had it's length adjusted properly so the brake system would work. That's the rod I straightened to get the proper length for the stock rod I cut and then welded back together.
Dick.

Dick thanks a lot. This project has made my gray hair white. I straightened out the rod. God only knows how I managed to get the die so cocked without noticing it. Maybe I should stick to auto upholstery. I'll hook it up as a manual disk/drum set up and maybe one of these days jump into the pool again and have a go at installing a stock booster. Did you figure your existing brake apparatus would work with a booster. In looking at the manual there looks like maybe more is needed that the booster and yoke. What all did you get in your ebay package?? Sorry to be such a bother!