'59 Plymouth Forum

Roger - I will try to get some pictures of the inner fenders and mufflers today.

John - My cylinder mounts may be welded in also, I didn't thing to take a hammer and try to tap them loose.

Dick.

I guess don't try to knock them loose if you don't have to. The addition of the two bolts per mount would make it pretty solid for me. I have seen these mounts available on ebay a couple of times but did not pick them up as being unneeded since mine were in good shape.


John Q.

Roger - Here are the pictures.

John - My cylinder brackets were not welded to the floor but since the bolts broke off and will be extremely difficult to get out I just might weld the brackets in place.

Dick.

Dick, my bracket and the floor boards does not show any captive nut, at least on mine. So I would just pass thru a bolt and have to put a washer nut on the underside to hold the bolt.

If yours is similar, and has a broken bolt, you should be able to tap it up or down to get out the remnants of it. But if there is a welded in nut on the floor board ...then you are toast!

John Q.

Thank you for the pictures Dick. I've never actually SEEN the two pair of exhaust parts. I knew my cvt was supposed to have them , but I couldnt find those "thin" resonators back in the day.

I'm confused, This Belvie Convt. does not have ANY rubber body mounts anywhere on the entire car. The body mount position with flat washers (at the seat bracket position and at the forward trunk mount position) every other one is the metal cup type. Can any one splain me whats up with that. Talked to John Q. and his car has the rubber body mounts.
Help,
Dick.

My convertible had the metal cup washers. Seems like some were combined w/ flat rubber pads.
There were locations where flat washers were combined with half-inch thick rubber cushions.
However, I can't recall which was where on the car.
I defintely remember collecting and cleaning a variety of body mounts, all of which went with car when sold.

Well, done a lot since last post. I cut out all the rusted metal on the drivers side, I'm waiting for Larry to fit and tack weld in the new panels. We will complete the drivers side before moving to the passenger side. The inner rockers and the floors under the rear seat cross brace had to be spot weld drilled and taken out. I was suprised to find another inner rocker under the one the floors rest on, it was in pretty good shape. I found universal inner rockers on ebay that you can cut and fit. Used a air needle gun to remove as much rust as possible from the bottom side of the rear seat cross brace then coated it with Eastwood Rust Converter (amazing stuff) the painted that with encapsulator. Since I had the differential rebuilt from the parts car I decided to finish the rear underside area so I could install the rear springs with new bushings, differential, axles and brakes. The only rear brake parts I had was from Christeen (the early style). Now I will be able to roll the car in and out of the garage for paint removal and stuff that won't crate a lot of dust. The frame rails and cross members have been cleaned and painted. Where there was pin holes in the trunk floor and inner rear fenders but no structural damage, I decided to use USC All metal filler on both sides figureing trying to weld up the pin holes would just make them bigger. Big M's (John Fowlie) and John Q's pictures have been a huge help. While waiting for Larry to get back from Vacation I will clean and start on the front suspension. Sandblasting, all new bushings, rubber bumpers, etc.
Had to suspend operations for four days 8/28 thru 8/31 to help refurbish the interior of the Asphalt Angels car club trailer. Reason being the trailer was at Larry's house and I had to get him back to my house. See pitchuhs.

My computer just crashed, had loaded 26 pictures and lost everything, I have to wait a little over a minute for a picture to load and then sometimes I lose it and have to start over. Well here goes again. I'm going to send ten pictures at a time so I don't lose everything.
Dick.

Here is ten more pictures.
Dick.

TIN MO.

Looking good Señor Dick! Keep up the good work!

Love seeing the pic's you post of your endeavors on your convertible re-build. Great to have another of the super rare Belvedere Convertible will hit the road in the near future!

What final color did you decide on? Wasn't it light blue?

I also have that Harbor Freight Air Flanging/hole punch tool, neat item to have when doing metal work on overlap seams!

John Q.

NO MO AFTA DIS.

Thanks John - I'm painting it factory colors. White with black top, gloss black dash and garnish moulding, black carpet, mottled grey cloth and silver vinyl on the seats. Door panels will be silver and white with a black vinyl or black carpet kick panel at the bottom. A friend Frank Lamp (he's on the site) gave me a beautiful chrome plated sport deck for the trunk. I will put a polished alum. disc on it. Ought to be cool, what do you think.
Dick.

Dick, I think it will be not only cool but super looking! Tom Fox's convert is stunning in its straight Basic Belvedere trim and yours will to!

What other parts do you need that is not on your overflowing garage shelf? Just send me a PM and I will check my stash before you go out for a general call or go E baying.

John Q.

A pound of $20's or a bag of 50's, your choice. heh, heh. I'm pretty much set for now, but I'm sure there is something I'll need in the future.
Thanks,
Dick.