pot metal repair

[Faulkner]

Roger, I'm copying the mailing list (and forum) on my reply to you, I'd like to see what other people think about this process:

> Have you made any inquiries about the vent window..you are probably looking
> for a replacement. I am gonna have to find a way to weld mine...if I had
> saved one of the parts cars vent frames, I could take it to a welder and see
> what he advises...now i will have to actually remove my existing frame and
> travel around with that...ugh

I found something on the web about "Muggy Weld" which is supposed to work well with pot metal. I wrote their bulletin board and corresponded with them about it. Here's the thread...

> > > > > name: Dan Morton
> > > > >
> > > > > questions: Can you recommend a welder in the South Jersey region who
> > > > uses your process? I need a classic car vent window frame soldered,
> > > > and it's pot metal...
> > > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Muggy Weld [mailto:mike@muggyweld.com]
> > > > Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:36 PM
> > > > To: morton@rad.upenn.edu
> > > > Subject: Re: Muggy Weld Question
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > actually we sell the rods to do it yourself. you can purchase them
> > > > online and take them to any welder to make the repair.
> > > >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Muggy Weld [mailto:mike@muggyweld.com]
> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 2:49 AM
> > To: Dan Morton
> > Subject: RE: Muggy Weld Question
> >
> > > Thanks -- but, that didn't answer my question. Your videos indicate
> > > temperature's important (half pot metal melting temperature), and "any
> > > welder" would be likely to say, as you note, "pot metal can't be welded".
> > >
> > > I'm looking for a reference, someone who's bought and used your products
> > > professionally.
> > >
> > > Got one?
> > >
> > > Dan
> >
> > Hi Dan:
> > Not in your area, the closest plating co. is Annopolis MD.(410) 573- 1077
> >
> > Mike
> >
> Mike,
>
> That's not too far -- I'll give the guy a call, and see if he'll consider
> taking the part, thanks.
>
> A question: My frame is for a driver. I know that high temps can ruin a
> chrome plate; will the temp. used for a muggy weld ruin this piece,
> requiring a replate? I'm pretty sure that both breaks can be soldered on
> the non-plate side.
>
> Dan

Dan:
you should be able to repair without any problem.
Mike

[Faulkner]

Oops, forgot the link:

http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html

[JSSuper]

I've heard good things about that before from other forums, but I've never had to try it.

[Guy Salmon]

Dan

Did you ever get to use "Muggy Weld" and if so was it a success? I was
thinking of trying to repair the pitting in my rear lights before rechroming.

Thanks
Guy

[Faulkner]

Hello Guy,

About the time I was investigating Muggy Weld, I learned of a wrecked '59 with a decent vent window. I opted to buy that instead. So I have no personal experience with Muggy Weld, sorry...

Dan

[Fins59]

Check out Vintage Vehicles Co. of Wautoma, WI. They run an ad in the Old Cars Weekly paper. In the ad they state they do pot metal repair and chroming. Their web site is www.vintagevehicles.net. I read thru the website quickly and did not see anything about pot metal repair but as I said, they do state in their ad that they do it. I haven't done business with them or know of anybody that has but their website info is kind of impressive.

[batmobile]

i just noticed in my december issue of "mopar muscle" them describing the chrome process. the chrome is chemicaly removed from the copper base. the old copper has to be sanded off until reaching base metal. new copper coat must be applied, "solder" is put in the pits of the pot metal, another copper coat is applied. sand smooth, then apply the nickel, and finally the chrome coats. this answered my earlier question about what to do about my chrome. i guess i will have to have it sent out and done proffesionally. but at least i know what to ask for and expect. i like this particular magazine because it is more technical and u can actually learn out of them. it cost more than hot rod. for three years i had to pay right at $50, but i think it is worth the money from what i have seen so far. they have mostly muscle car era, but they do have a few fins. i love the green '57 300C convertible in the nov. issue. if they continue this quality i will be a long-term subscriber. i used to get "hot rod", but they were too generic. i subscribe to "rod and custom", and they're al'right, but mopar muscle is my fav.--jeremy

[rogerh]

I bought the Muggy Weld..not sure if that is the correct name, but yeah, cost $85..I tried to fill the pits I drilled out on a pair of taillights..guess I dont have the talent and patience..the solder got globbed on and then I didnt have a decent file (nor the energy) to file it smooth..I cgave up and sent a different set of taillights to a professional