removing the steering linkage

[Faulkner]

Dan - I used the kit to remove old ball joints. I googled "Ball Joint Press" and the links show pics of the tool and states that it is for both removal and installation of press fit parts such as ball joints, u joints, etc.

John in Wis. and John Fowlie had it right all along! I rented the pittman arm/tie rod puller from Autozone and tried it. I had a helluva time getting the teeth of the arms into the joint; they kept wanting to pop out. With a little patience (I'm short on that), I got it to the point where I could really pound them in. However, I couldn't get it completely centered -- but enough for the point of the screw to find its way inside the crown nut.

Then I started crankin'. Got a little nervous when shiny shards of the crown nut ground off, but I kept on crankin'. When it got really snug, I started pounding on the arms again. Pop! Off it came! And the crown nut is none the worse for wear. Thanks, J & J.

And Roger -- you were right (again). You can swing the control arm away and down, enough to get the pan off.

At least, I think you can. I'll save that for another day. The Eagles game is now on, and I am, after all, TWSAM.

Dan

P.S. Ron -- I guess there is increased resistance when there's lots of corrosion!

[rogerh]

hOORAY!
Now, tot he next step. I don't want to depress you unnecessarily about the engine mounting bolts..start soaking them now with WD-40 or something better. Those engine bolts have not budged for 45 years...

[Fins59]

There's many penentrants out there but I've always had good luck with PB Blaster.

[Fins59]

Speaking of WD-40, have you guys seen the new can? It has a straw attached that flips up when you want to use straw and flips down when you don't. You never lose your straw that way. Great invention, why didn't I think of that

[rogerh]

not sure if Ive ever seen PB Blaster, but I recall a long discussion about it either on this site or the FL site..comes highly recommended. No flip straw though!

[rogerh]

oh and Dan, I can hardly believe I've been right twice in a ow! This may be the start of a trend for me!

[batmobile]

i heard pb blaster was good, but i tried and couldn't tell much difference from just regular wd-40. i know it smells funky. have not seen the new straws, sounds good, i'm always loosing the staws, they fall out when i'm walking across the shop, or when somebody else borrows my can/s. but anywho, congrats dan, i knew the car would give up eventually.---jeremy

[big m]

I use a penetrant called Lube Job that I get through mail order. I've found that it works just as well as the PB blaster, but costs half as much which is important around here, as much of it I go through.---John

[Faulkner]

I use a penetrant called Lube Job that I get through mail order. I've found that it works just as well as the PB blaster, but costs half as much which is important around here, as much of it I go through.---John

Thanks John -- I found this link to it:

http://www.blowoff.com/lubejob/super_penetrant.html

Dan

[Fins59]

PB Blaster - $3.76 for 11 oz can @ Walmart. About a buck and a half more at NAPA.

[safetymike1977]

For what its worth, if you come git it, you can have all my poly stuff, including the block with good rings and bearings in it. I found it was leaking exhaust around one of the coolant passages between 5 and 7. I want the space in my garage back... Come get it.

Mike

[safetymike1977]

I pulled the exhaust flanges apart on a 71 318 that had been run in salt for several years by soaking with PB blaster. It works much better than WD40 and I haven't scraped a knuckle trying to break a bolt loose since I have used it.

[Faulkner]

hOORAY!
Now, tot he next step. I don't want to depress you unnecessarily about the engine mounting bolts..start soaking them now with WD-40 or something better. Those engine bolts have not budged for 45 years...

Actually, Faulkner already had his rusted oil pan replaced two years ago -- so the mechanic had already loosened the rust. But even so, you are so right, Roger -- these are a bear. I had to put an 18" breaker bar on them and really lean into it to break them free.

Now, if I can hide from Marie long enough to raise the engine and drop the pan, mebbe I'll get a look at some bearings...

Dan

[Faulkner]

Now, if I can hide from Marie long enough to raise the engine and drop the pan, mebbe I'll get a look at some bearings...

Well, no such luck. I set a bottle jack and a block of wood under the fan pulley, and started lifting. The whole front end started lifting! The motor mount bolts fall into open slots on the frame brackets, I would have expected them to lift right out. Wait! Am I supposed to loosen the rear mount too? I only did the front two...

Also:

...On p. 276, there is a section on how to remove the oil pan.
{remove steering and idler arms, dust shield, starter motor, exhaust cross-over, distributor cap, and draft tube (?), then disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine 2 inches.}

Has anyone found it necessary to remove the starter to get the pan out? One of the three bolts is behind the exhaust, and to remove that -- well, there's a bit of the "mushroom" factor here. And those bolts to the manifold are so rusted, I'll probably snap one if I try.

(*sigh*)... More than I bargained for. Gotta go, we're having a "housecolding"/Halloween party tonight (yes, we sold our house, moving into Philly), and I gotta help clean. BTW, you're all invited!

Dan

[Faulkner]

Well, no such luck. I set a bottle jack and a block of wood under the fan pulley, and started lifting. The whole front end started lifting! The motor mount bolts fall into open slots on the frame brackets, I would have expected them to lift right out. Wait! Am I supposed to loosen the rear mount too? I only did the front two...

Doh! I asked the expert, Ed Eckerson, and he 'splained it all to me:

You are doing fine!!
The POLY is a 650 lb engine,,about 1/3 of the total weight on the front end.

The entire front end will come up 4"+ before the block FINALLY lifts off the mounts. Just be nice and gentle to the pulley. Also check how much your hoses are strethching when she starts to lift. You dont have to go far as long as you have removed the centerlink.

Make sure your bottle jack is fully colapsed when making contact with the wood/pulley. That gives you a good 5-6" of travel.

EASY DOES IT!

OK. Mebbe tomorrow night. Stay tuned as TSWAM makes another attempt...

Dan