removing the steering linkage
removing the steering linkage
I'm dropping the link arm so I can remove the oil pan. I bought a fork, and I was able to use it to drive the tie rod end out of the link arm, with a lot of pounding. I'm getting nowhere, though, with the steering gear arm where it joins the link arm. I'm pounding and pounding...
My dad used to have an acetylene torch, and when I was a kid, I would heat up the ring to pop a joint. I don't have that anymore though; and I've heard that it can weaken the metal to get it that hot.
It seems to me there ought to be a splitter that you can tighten with a bolt. Are there such things?
A couple of other questions: If I can get this joint free, is it possible to swing the link arm down, or to the side, so that the pan can be dropped -- without splitting the joints on the other side? I've read that for some blocks, you need to remove the starter, loosen the motor mounts and actually jack up the block a couple inches to get the pan out. Is that something I'll need to do on my 318? If so -- well, I think I'm getting into more than I bargained for...
My dad used to have an acetylene torch, and when I was a kid, I would heat up the ring to pop a joint. I don't have that anymore though; and I've heard that it can weaken the metal to get it that hot.
It seems to me there ought to be a splitter that you can tighten with a bolt. Are there such things?
A couple of other questions: If I can get this joint free, is it possible to swing the link arm down, or to the side, so that the pan can be dropped -- without splitting the joints on the other side? I've read that for some blocks, you need to remove the starter, loosen the motor mounts and actually jack up the block a couple inches to get the pan out. Is that something I'll need to do on my 318? If so -- well, I think I'm getting into more than I bargained for...
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
i do a lot of front end work, and the forked tools ends up tearing the rubber boots. i coat the bolt with wd-40 or other penetrate, let it set for a minute or too, then i take a decent-sized ball-peen hammer and hit the female end. work ur all the way around the connection, as mush as u can anyways. this causes the metal to flex, bust loose and then come apart. if it still is rusted in, after exhausting the first method (no more than 12 good hits), if u can get a clear swing, put a nut on there just enough to set flush with bolt end so that u can protect the threads, then just tap it out. i have done this a hundred times, it will work. have fun!----jeremy
There will be no bringing her back here, I'm selling this sh**hole and buying me a condo.
Actually, John, I don't need to remove the pitman -- just, remove the end of the pitman where it goes into the crossarm (so I can either remove it or swing it out of the way). It's in the way of the pan... I'm going to try Jeremy's suggestion next weekend, since The World's Slowest Auto Mechanic doesn't work weekdaysbig m wrote:If its the pitman arm that you are having difficulty removing, you will need to get a pitman arm puller for this task. The pitman is the arm that is connected to the steering box. These pullers are available from most any tool store, or a snap-on or Mac type tool dealer.---John
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Well, I've followed all the suggestions here, a couple of times now -- and this sucka ain't budging. I even bought a small puller, but the gap between the control arm and the pitman arm is too small to get the teeth into (the bushing is completely destroyed at this point). And no, I'm not having fun...batmobile wrote:i do a lot of front end work, and the forked tools ends up tearing the rubber boots. i coat the bolt with wd-40 or other penetrate, let it set for a minute or too, then i take a decent-sized ball-peen hammer and hit the female end. work ur all the way around the connection, as mush as u can anyways. this causes the metal to flex, bust loose and then come apart. if it still is rusted in, after exhausting the first method (no more than 12 good hits), if u can get a clear swing, put a nut on there just enough to set flush with bolt end so that u can protect the threads, then just tap it out. i have done this a hundred times, it will work. have fun!----jeremy
This is the first step of many on the way to getting the pan off, and I'm really discouraged. No wonder I'm TWSAM! I'm giving up for now and taking a shower. If anyone can point me in the direction of a tool that will do the trick, send it my way...
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
must be some serious rust. if u have access to an air hammer u can use that, but it will probably bugger up the threads. i don't know what size hammer u have, or how much room u have to work. i use a car lift so i have all the room i need, so i can swing and get some pretty good force. u might try a wedge, like a pry bar or puller, then hitting it with a hammer (the joint). don't be afraid to give some good licks, it is hardened steel. good luck, have patience it will give up before u do. ttyl---jeremy
There will be no bringing her back here, I'm selling this sh**hole and buying me a condo.
Here's a tip I received on the forwardlook newsgroup:
I'll keep you posted...
Dan
This sounds like a winner! I'm gonna try it tonight, if I can get home early enough. A combination of Jeremy's suggestions with a couple others I've received. Also, people tell me DON'T use heat, unless I can be quick about it; that would be acetylene, propane just ain't hot enough and will do more damage than good.Mike M wrote:An old mechanic's trick, put pressure on the stud or arm like with a bottle jack, then hit both sides of the ring at the same time with ball peen hammers. The vibration of momentarily distorting the shape of the hole in the ring should pop the joint loose.
I'll keep you posted...
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
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Fins59
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 10:12 pm
- Location: Kronenwetter, Wis......just south of Wausau
Dan - I would think too that by disconnecting pitman the arm would swing away out of way....but if that doesn't work, what about a ball joint removal tool. Not the fork type tool but the kit that actually presses out a ball joint. I've used one several times to press out worn ball joints and press in new ones. You can rent one for free at Autozone with a refundable $100 deposit. The kit has several size adaptors. If you saw the kit maybe then you could tell if it would work. I googled it and saw pics of it but seeing one in person would be better.
Hi John, I called my local Autozone guy -- he quoted me the $100 deposit, but he said the ball joint press kit was designed to press joints in, not remove them, and that I should use a pickle fork! But I'm not believing him -- I'm going to stop by and check it out for myself. Thanks for the tip...Fins59 wrote:Dan - I would think too that by disconnecting pitman the arm would swing away out of way....but if that doesn't work, what about a ball joint removal tool. Not the fork type tool but the kit that actually presses out a ball joint. I've used one several times to press out worn ball joints and press in new ones. You can rent one for free at Autozone with a refundable $100 deposit. The kit has several size adaptors. If you saw the kit maybe then you could tell if it would work. I googled it and saw pics of it but seeing one in person would be better.
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Well, the ball joint tool kit at Autozone is definitely for pressing joints in, not removing them. The counter guy recommended a pickle fork for removing ball jointsFaulkner wrote:Hi John, I called my local Autozone guy -- he quoted me the $100 deposit, but he said the ball joint press kit was designed to press joints in, not remove them, and that I should use a pickle fork! But I'm not believing him -- I'm going to stop by and check it out for myself. Thanks for the tip...Fins59 wrote:Dan - I would think too that by disconnecting pitman the arm would swing away out of way....but if that doesn't work, what about a ball joint removal tool. Not the fork type tool but the kit that actually presses out a ball joint. I've used one several times to press out worn ball joints and press in new ones. You can rent one for free at Autozone with a refundable $100 deposit. The kit has several size adaptors. If you saw the kit maybe then you could tell if it would work. I googled it and saw pics of it but seeing one in person would be better.
Dan
But I did rent the tie rod/pittman arm removal tool. I'll give that a try. My concern is that the fingers are two thick to tap the jaw into place before tightening, but we'll see.Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
okay, I found a quiet moment, finally opened the 57-8 Shop Manual and learned what an oil pressure relief valve is and where it is located!
You all have probably seen the section (p. 321) for what to check if your car has low oil pressure.
1)Check for external leaks
2) check the oil pressure relief valve
3) check the oil pressure switch, adding a Tee fitting to check with accurate gauge (Dan has done this)
4) Use the right viscosity oil
5) check flow of oil at bearings, using a special tool (p. 314)
6) Check the oil pump for excessive clearance
On p. 313, I read that if the strainer on the oil pickup in the pan gets clogged, oil will bypass the screen, so I guess that rules out a clogged screen as the cause of low pressure. But you still have to drop the pan to access the oil pump and/or the bearings.
On p. 276, there is a section on how to remove the oil pan.
{remove steering and idler arms, dust shield, starter motor, exhaust cross-over, distributor cap, and draft tube (?), then disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine 2 inches.}
You all have probably seen the section (p. 321) for what to check if your car has low oil pressure.
1)Check for external leaks
2) check the oil pressure relief valve
3) check the oil pressure switch, adding a Tee fitting to check with accurate gauge (Dan has done this)
4) Use the right viscosity oil
5) check flow of oil at bearings, using a special tool (p. 314)
6) Check the oil pump for excessive clearance
On p. 313, I read that if the strainer on the oil pickup in the pan gets clogged, oil will bypass the screen, so I guess that rules out a clogged screen as the cause of low pressure. But you still have to drop the pan to access the oil pump and/or the bearings.
On p. 276, there is a section on how to remove the oil pan.
{remove steering and idler arms, dust shield, starter motor, exhaust cross-over, distributor cap, and draft tube (?), then disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine 2 inches.}