Adjusting E brake, New kick down seal installed from out side, Drain plug installation required silver soldering in lock nut. The transmission is done.
Pictures of engine adapter and modern easy to find high speed starter, Please note the TR waters adapter is missing securing holes? you can drill and add these fairly easily but why were they not included? The R & D power engineering is nicer with a steel crank adapter not an aluminum piece. also easier to dial in. Guess which one I will be using?
Replace this O ring, or you will have a leak. Anyone for leftovers? With the rooster comb in the center detent, have an assistant hold the drive button in, adjust in the adjustment wheel, secure with screw and test, use a powered test light and make sure your neutral safety is actuated in neutral. you also can watch the rooster comb through the safety switch hole. /b]
Thanks Ricky! Here's some instructions I received from Dave Grove, many moons ago... They worked for me then, but I need to do it again. When I ordered from Fatsco, there were two different sizes; not knowing which to order, I ordered them both. They are safe in an envelope, waiting for you to come visit some time and install for me. I'm all set in the refreshment department.
There are two styles in 1959 Torque Flites, good to have both O ring seals. Now My Son and Son-in-law finished off all my "Colorado Native Project timers." There are four different now, my favorite is the original.
1962 A 727 with E/brake for B engine Core $250.
1963 A 727 for A engine Core $100.
Adapter kit for early A and Hemi engines $400.
Master rebuild kit for A 727 Bushings rings bands etc.$180.
Emergency brake shoes and misc. parts $75.
Torque Convertor rebuild 2200 stall roller thrust $120
Gil Younger TF1 Shift Kit Mild performance $60.
Solvents sealers and paint $25.
Tail housing seal $ 6.
Total parts not including tax $1216 tax here $96.80
Thanks for asking. I guess I will be engineering a tap guide for the crank shaft, being able to thread to 1/2 by 20 threads per inch eight times is harder to do on an assembled engine.
Ordered more performance flex plates, for 727 and 518 automatic transmissions. Still getting the side eye from some of my neighbors, that think I am working on 'nerve gas generators'. Until their transportation leaves them stranded, then all of the sudden I have new friends in need. Pictures are for educational purposes only, not smut, just naked car parts. Rick
Sweeeeet, Rick! Are these flex plates going in transmissions for personal consumption, or are you rebuilding other folks transmissions as an avocation? And shouldn't there be bullet holes in that sign?
Say hi to John for me - we miss him in these parts...
Helping a friend pull a M-6 transmission from a 50 DeSoto, it has the same emergency brake arrangement. So the same system seems to have been used from 49 to 1962 Chrysler products.
My '63 Valiant wagon uses the rear drum braking system for emergency brakes, Rick (as well as having a park pawl for the transmission). That's consistent with your observation.
What did Mother MoPar do for emergency braking before 1949? Or are emergency brakes a post-WWII invention?
Dan, My 47 WC pickup has an external band on drum, ratchet lever locked in place until center button is pressed to release ratchet saw sprag Adjusted by threaded bolt and centering limit, on bracket.
