Welcome to an email conversation between Art Schlachter and Dick Koch. You are invited to offer your comments!
Art Schlachter wrote:Dick, I am working on my dash lights, clock light and stop lights on rear of my car. All the lights on my dash work except for the dash illumination and clock illumination. I am suspicious that the problem is with the headlight switch, so I ordered a new switch off E-bay, plus I also have an extra headlight switch from a junked MOPAR that I have never tried. In the attachments above one photo shows both the New Switch and the one from a junked MOPAR. The other photo shows the present headlight switch that is mounted in the dash. I pulled the headlight switch from the dash but haven’t disconnected any of the wiring – it is just hanging from the wires. (I also dropped the emergency or parking brank handle assy down to give me better access to headlight switch) There are two things that I noticed with the new switch that appears to be slightly different from the original under the dash. (Ignore the extra “used” headlight switch and just look at the new switch verses the orginal headlight switch show in the other photo.)
1) On the new switch there is an obvious yellow wire (w/connector) attached to the back side of new switch that isn’t on the old switch. There is a photo of this wire as it connects to the switch. What could this be for ???
2) It appears that all the wire connectors on the new switch match the original switch on the car except for one strange twist. All these connectors on the new switch are a “mirror” image to that of the original headlight switch. To demonstrate what I am referring to, take a look
at the location of the threaded screw on the new switch and then look at the location on the original switch that is still in my car. The threaded screws are on opposite sides of the bakelite housing of the switches. The same can be said for each of the other blade
connector terminals.
Have you experienced anything like this when restoring your plymouth convertible ? I am tempted to go ahead and try the new switch except I am puzzled by the yellow wire. I wonder if it relates to the rheostat that brightens and dims the dash lights. What would I hook it to?
Dick Koch wrote:Art - The extra yellow wire with the connector is not needed for your car. Just hook up your wires same as on the old one and you should be OK. It doesn't matter which side the main post is on. I am going to forward your email to Dan and ask him to post your question and pictures on the 59 site so you can get the expertise of others and a better answer than mine. I think the switch you have is for a Chrysler or Imperial. I have one like that and l always wondered what that extra wire was for.
I'm inclined to agree with Dick - there's nothing I see on the schematic (below) that indicates anything but the yellow wire for the rear parking lights, already called out elsewhere on the switch. What do you think?
I have been in North Carolina visiting a brother this week and have not tried the new headlight switch, but will get at it this week. What bothered
me is not only is the threaded post on the opposite side but also all the pins - just like it was a mirror image of the original on the car. How they
manufactured such a switch is beyond me but I will give it a try and see what happens. On the new headlight switch, there are raised letters in
the bakelite at the base of each pin. When I pull the old switch (still on the car) I am going to take a close look and see if the same raised letters are
next to each of the connector pins. Will let you know results. Hope nothing sorts as there are no fuses on this car.
New replacement Light Switch did work okay. Installing had problems with the terminal connectors not staying connected while installing new switch.
Crimped terminals to slide tighter on the light switch blades. Also discovered on wire had insulation cut and exposed from wire dragging against sharp edge under dash. Taped with electrical tape. While I was at it I replace instrument bulbs with green super bright leds. What a difference it makes in dash illumination.
schlaaj wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2017 5:10 pm
While I was at it I replace instrument bulbs with green super bright leds. What a difference it makes in dash illumination.
Art! Chapter and verse! Where did you get, part numbers please?!?
Dan, regarding the super bright LED's, go to "superbrightleds.com". I installed only the green light bulbs and not the others as the oil and gen lights are bright enough. You will see on the web site there is a variety of colors available. The three green LED bulbs are #BA9S-GHP5. While I was at it
I also installed on green LED in the clock on the dash you will like the results. After installing in dash, if they do not illuminate when you pull the light switch just rotate the headlight switch rheostat for setting the brightness. Regarding the clock bulb, when I pulled the socket from the clock
housing the length of the wire lead was not long enough to drop below the dash for installing new bulb. I ended up taking the glove box door off and
unscrewing the glove box itself. Didn't have to take box out but removing the screws allowed me side access to the clock housing and bulb socket.
Dan, regarding installing the green superbright LED's under the dash. In back of the speedometer, I only installed the center bulb and left the two
outside ones as normal bulbs. The one LED bulb in the center is more than enough to get good illumination. Reaching up under the dash is fairly
easy for the center bulb. The outer bulbs are much more cumbersome to access, due to the way you have to twist your hand and apply pressure at the same time to lock sockets in place. You will still be pleased with the results.
After I installed LED's in the dash, I took out the knob and shaft and cleaned it up with some super fine Emery cloth.
After that it rotated beautifully even though with LED's they won't dim unless there's more done to the circuit.
You did the right thing regarding emery cloth and cleaning the rheostat portion of the headlight switch. Over the years that copper wire rheostat corrodes and gets a white material on it and prevents current going to your dash lights. (I have had that happen on my other MOPARS ) At the moment I don't have any dash lights as the one LED bulb that I had in place burned out. I am into replacing my brake shoes and front wheel bearings. After I get this done I will jump back and service my dash lights. I only want to replace the three speedometer light bulbs with LED's - the rest of the light bulbs I will leave just as they are. As far as not being able to dim the LED's - that is okay with me as I rarely drive the car at night anyway as the full brightness doesn't bother me. (If I was driving a great distance at night I might feel different about the brightness)
