Electrical Problems

[jaydogg]

John - It's stamped 2.93 both of my other ones are stamped 3.13.
Dick.

Where on rear end is that stamped? Is it on the big circular gear in the axle or on the face of the pinion there. That is one area I have not openend up yet. The Suburban is supposed to be 4.11 but it has the electric overdrive tranny that takes it down to a 2.93 or 2.78 at speeds (40 mph plus) My biggest concern is getting the overdrive unit working. It has the two electircal servos seen in the picture hopefully they are still functional. Waiting to hear from northwest transmission if they have anything I need. The front input shaft/pinion on the tranny is pretty scored so that may be the first order of business finding a new one. Going to see Big M this week and pick up new inner fender and a few other things if possible.
Any one have any dealings with the electric overdrive? Any sage words of advice

[big m]

Jay,

The gear ratio is stamped on a machined boss just below the pinion seal on the main housing.

I have the factory 2-4 barrel intake on my '57 Fury, and if driven conservatively, I can get about 16 MPG with it.

---John

[Dick Koch]

Jay - That boss John is talking about is on the outside very botton of the main housing. Sometime's it very difficult to see, bring a flashlight and a wire brush with you.
Dick.

[jaydogg]

Ok so the front suspension has caused me much grief and displeasure...Here is a pic of the offending part....any suggestions on how to get it to budge? Tried flame, flame and break free, flame brake free and wax. Is this a unscrew counter clockwise or clockwise? Not that it matters because its not going either direction so far. Have the correct 1.91 inch remover and a long breaker bar....getting a 1/2 to 3/4 in impact driver tomorrow so will give that a try and see if i can get a move.
On a lighter note went down to williams Ca to Big M's and picked out a few parts...god I love that place. John knows his stuff and it was great seeing his conv restoration project.

[Mark Merritt]

Jaydogg; I used an impact gun,it has A hammering effect and got it to move A little then went to A very long breaker bar. Turn to loosen counter clockwise.After it is out lightly wire brush the threads and install using a little never cease on the threads,careful not to cross thread(start it by hand) Mark M

[jaydogg]

Lost last draft of this so this will be shorter..
So finally got front ball joints off with soaking them in a lake of break free for a week...see pic
the passenger side has new metal...make new floor boards...first effort a welding so a few burn thrus but not bad. The driver side will have preformed panels so will see how those fit and weather it is just easier making your own.

New fabric in from sms so seats being made. Need to make new front seat feet and brackets as mine are rusted out. Neighbor has plasma cutting table and scrap 14 ga so im in luck and will get those made soon.
New fussie strips and window door moulding is at shop and ready to be installed.
New susp parts on way from kanter and rock auto.

One problem is the steering wheel...it wont come off...what am i missing
All the screws are off the back the nut is off...tried a puller behing flange and bent flange now using harmonic puller but still wont budge...even after break free....any ideas?
Also tips on the torsion bars so i can get the lower ball joint out and powder coat the lower arm and the torsion bars.....built a 4 x 5 x 8 powdercoating oven so all my big stuff is getting coated
Here are a few pics

[rogerh]

I don't think I own one anymore, I think I sold it along with the convertible.
A steering wheel puller is a smaller version of a rear hub puller...a beefy central threaded rod, this time with three moveable fingers or arms coming off the central hub (instead of five on the hub puller)....the key being these three fingers BOLT to the holes in the steering plate.
You've learned (too late) that the fingers having hooks will likely bend whatever they are hooked around.
When you find the correct tool, remember to put the nut back on the steering shaft to protect the threads as you apply pressure to the area.
As for the torsion bars, your photos show you currently have no load on the bars, so just loosen the rear adjusters until they go slack. This takes all the torque off the bars and then you can pull them out. The bars fit into sockets in front; they will probably be stuck after all these years. More penetrating oil! You should mark them Right and Left so they go back where they came from.

[Mark Merritt]

Jay dogg; Sounds like your wheel is A tight one,put the nut on like roger said,flush with the top,I used A 3 arm geer puller (small one) but A steering wheel puller would be better,put A decent amount of tension on it and give the center A smack whith A hammer.That did it for me.Keep you torsion bars right and left the way they came off,when I cleaned mine up I also noticed red paint(from A brush) at the rear 6 inches or so,I think it was for assembley purposes identifiying that it goes to the rear. good luck. Mark M

[rogerh]

After my reply, I researched "harmonic balancer"...and saw a photo on the Sears page...that gadget should do the job. Maybe the hammer whack is what's missing! See what your local auto parts store is willing to loan-rent to you.
Maybe you can figure a way to apply some heat, such as heating up a separate metal bar using a blowtorch, then holding the bar to the steering wheel hub? Good luck!

[Dick Koch]

Jay - I recently replaced the lower control arm bushings in the convertible I'm restoring and had trouble removing the torsion bars. They were stuck pretty good from all those years of sitting in a field with non-use. I clamped the largest pair of Vise Grip pliers as tight as I could get them and used the smack method with a hammer to jar them loose. Took quite a few smacks but they did come loose.
Dick.