SEALING REAR BACKLIGHT MOULDING.

[Dick Koch]

At the bottom of the rear backlight/windshield is a V groove channel with holes that the bottom moulding clips go thru with a washer nut on the bottom side. How do you seal those holes from water leakage into the trunk. The previous owner had filled the groove with clear sealer and then glued the molding down. I have all the correct clips to do it correctly and assume there is some sort of rubber washer backed by a metal washer on the bottom side but how or is it necessary to seal the top side, i.e. in the channel. I would also assume the front bottom windshield moulding holes are sealed the same way. Any and all suggestions or proper procedures are welcome.
Thanks,
Dick.

[rogerh]

I think you are right...there were rubber washers to fit the attaching bolts before the nuts go on.
I believe that the factory used a sort of fiber-reinforced "goo" to seal problem areas such as this. The clips were first snapped into the molding, then sealer was bunched ( the Manual calls them 'balls of sealer') around each bolt up at the clip end, then the molding was put into place with the rubber washers and nuts securing it in place. A sort of hit-or-miss method, which is why some trunks and windshields leaked. If water and debris stood in the groove long enough, then you got rust-thru. That leaf-blower drying idea from Fins59 is a good one!
The Manual mentions "Body Mastic Black Stock No. BS-1". Shop your local autobody supply shops for some sort of black sealer in caulking tubes. Maybe RTV sealer would work. I don't like the idea of sealing the stainless trim AFTER it is installed, but the Service Manual suggests you do this if there were a leak, using "semi-fluid sealer" after first masking the area.
The Manual says to also apply sealer to each nut after assembly.
The same treatment applies for the front windshield molding and roof stainless.
The original side trim clips had rubber parts to seal the holes from leaks.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

I agree with Roger!

( I have no other experience in this area, so it's wise to agree with Roger, who is usually right. Plus it sounds very plausable...)

John Q.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

P. S Dick your car is coming along wonderfully! Good Work!

John Q.

[RICKYMOPAR]

I found out the hard way you do not want to seal glass with silicone or RTV. It ruined my gasket for later use and the metal side rusted faster than ever. I use non-hardening glass sealer now and had no problems. I also use the primer first a black paint like material. I also will plug 3M products gave the best results. Best of luck!

[Fins59]

If I have a choice, I will always pick 3M over any similar product. Always had good luck with 3M.

[jason]

In this area its always good to fill the 'v' void with sealer first.
In my 57 this area was rust free because the groove where the clips attach
were full of sealer right up to the parcel shelf.

I used excess sealer then pushed the trim down till the sealer oozed out everywhere.
its very messy but this is the best way I found to make it totally water tight!!
And the flared nut will collect any residual sealer as it screws up!!

Jase