'59 Plymouth Forum

Any suggestions of how to remove the rocker arm shaft dowel pin?

Ted

Guess it's time to pull the heads and check them out. is there a thread with all the specs and what not for these factory heads?

Put #7 piston to TDC, ran compressed air through spark plug hole and I could hear it coming out of the exhaust (I also listened at carb, oil fill and radiator but only heard from exhaust). So what's next? Pull the head and fix the exhaust valve problem on that cylinder?

Ted

1.25" doesn't fit, seems like it's too small. The bolt isn't in good condition either. Gonna clean it up and try again.

55 survivor wrote:Ted; thinking it to be 1 1/4 socket will let you know when I get home tonight. Mark

Thanks Mark, I'll go ahead and buy a new larger socket set including a 1.25". I found some where else online that said it was a 1.25" on a truck poly motor so that should be correct.

Ted

Had to put the project on hold while I renovated the garage to create some storage and work area. Now I'm back at it but I'm having trouble turning the motor by hand by pulling fan/belt. Anyone know what size the crank nut is? The largest socket I have is 13/16 and it's not even close, gonna have to...

How do I tell when that piston is at TDC? Just by looking in the open spark plug hole? How should I go about rotating crank manually? Remove v belts and stick a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer? When the rotor is pointed to the wire that goes to the bad cylinder, the piston is approaching TDC...

I would hope it was something simple like a carbon chunk stuck under a valve holding it open . I remove the distributor cap and mark position of the bad cylinder rotor location. firing order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. Rotate the crankshaft to move the weak cylinder's piston to it's TDC top dead center. A ...

Cylinder 7: zero PSI, put a teaspoon of oil in it and re prayed test but still 0 PSI so I'm thinking a stuck/broken valve or something? Sounds like. Oil in the cylinder typically brings up pressure, but you wouldn't have had zero PSI anyway with bad rings. One of the valves is remaining open, I'm g...

Did some clean up in engine bay and completed a compression test. Cylinder 1: 94 psi. Cylinder 2: 100 psi. Cylinder 3: 100 psi. Cylinder 4: 100 psi. Cylinder 5: unknown, need to try to plug out and gauge on again tomorrow. Cylinder 6: 100 psi. Cylinder 7: zero PSI, put a teaspoon of oil in it and re...

Got the tank in, carb on, some gasoline in the tank, 15 seconds of cranking and voila, she's alive again. I was gonna upload the video of her running but it was taking too long.

Dad had stripped paint before he passed away 6 years ago. I've had her in storage ever since. Finally decided to start the restoration. Got her to run and drive down the block then I pulled the carb and had it rebuilt. Dropped the fuel tank and ordered a new sending unit from classic car auto parts ...

Welcome, Ted! You say the car is complete except for those two items, but I see the bumper and valance are missing. Do you have those, but they are just off the car? If you are in need of a valance, I saw one pretty beat up in a facebook post, but it was cheap - it may be gone now, but I could chec...

Thanks. The car is complete less the wiper and lighter knob but needs some stuff to be completely replaced because it's just too beat up to salvage.

Hello everyone, Ted from ABQ., NM here. Dad left me his 59 fury when he passed like 6 years ago. He had stripped the paint starting to restore it. I've been storing it and the time has come to start the restoration process. It's running and driving but need to get rid of a lot of especially in floor...