'59 Plymouth Forum

Hi All

Just been given the bad news that my block is 40 thou over size. I have heard of too many bad stories about re-sleeving so I am on the hunt for a new block

Any assistance on location or price would be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Vic

Vic It has been my understanding that the early 361 B blocks can be overbored .060 of an inch with no problem. Sleeving a bad cylinder is a common repair, and works quite well.

Thanks

I will continue my discussions with the mechanic

I agree with Rick, that there is still tons of room left to clean up those cylinders. My 1960 413 RB is honed out to .040 with no issues on it. Could have probably cleaned up with .030 but found some .040 slugs that we got a good deal on so went that route.

Maybe your mechanic was just worried about getting some oversized pistons In Australia is why he said that... Pistons can be found here in the states easily.

John Q.

Cheers John

The concern raised was that if they are not installed correctly water could get in

I will investigate how much more "meat" is left in the block

Thanks for the input

Vic - Just got back from my engine builder, he's rebuilding my 318 A block for my converetible restoration. He's in his early 60's and has been rebuilding engines all his life. I asked him about reboring a 361 to 60 over and he said no problem, does it all the time, he says you could actually in a pinch go 80 over but doesn't recommed it. If you decide to go 60 over he can get the pistons and rings for you with no problem. I asked him if they installed hardened valve seats in my heads and he said the valve seats in my heads were OK, there were no inserts from the factory. I asked about enthenol and unleaded gas affecting the seats and he said the engine should go 100 K miles before the seats start to deteoriate. I asked what about everyone saying the valve seats will burn up, he said thats true but it's the misconception about the legth of time it takes for the seats to start burning that no one talks about and it also depend on how hard you are on the engine, ordinary driving means the seats will last a long time. I don't expect to get close to 100K on my engine. He was adjusting to valve when I was there with the engine cold. The book calls for adjusting when hot, intake 8 and exhaust 18. He does it cold, intake 10 and exhaust 20 and you should be alright.
Dick.

On my 413 heads for my convert, I had the machine shop put in unleaded hardened seats and it was very in-expensive to do. Less then $100 for the seats and installation of them, Heads were off anyhow for de-greasing and cleaning up so I went ahead and did them.

But I don't think it will hurt them (by not putting in unleaded seats) for the use we put our cars thru most of the time now that they are in the pampered stage of its life. Very little valve recession will occur if you would leave the original seats in them, they have soaked up enough accumulated Tetryl Lead over the years to cushion the opening and closing of the valve that you won't hurt it. IMHO


John Q.

John - There are a couple of places in town that we can buy pure gas (no ethanol). Our ligislature passed a law that says any gas station can sell pure gas it they want to and the governor signed the law. It costs a little more but I use it all the time, I add a zinc additive.
Dick.

Thanks for the input guys

It's given me a lot to think about

Cheers

Vic

Hello Vic,
Are you still looking for a 361 cu in motor? If so, I have a 1962 361 cu in with the push button transmission attached.
Approximately 98,000 miles. It was pulled out of a1962 Chrysler Newport. I ran when it was pull out about 20 years ago.
Mark

Hi Mark

Thanks for the follow up but I have managed to source a stock bore 383 block locally and have decided to stroke it to a 456 with a very mild cam. Thought I might go for a bit of bottom end fun.

Exploring the use of the 440 Source aluminum heads. Have you or anyone else had any experience with these?

Cheers

Vic

Hello Vic,
No I have not.
Thanks for the reply,

Mark