Page 1 of 3

Time to get real

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:33 pm
by Faulkner
The other evening, I was complaining to my friend Ed Ober about the things I needed to do to Faulkner, and how little time I have to do it -- and, how I wish I had a "guy" to do stuff for me. He reminded me that the fellow who put my engine in would probably do whatever I needed -- and even though he's an hour or so from me now, Faulkner's driveable, why not load him up with parts and drop him off?

I'm thinkin', this is a great idea. So I need some help, in finding the parts I need. Remember, Faulkner's a driver, so being completely original isn't critical for me.

I'd like to replace the shocks. I'd also like to replace the exhaust lead pipes, the tail pipes, and perhaps the mufflers -- although, I recall these as being in fairly good shape. I'll check on Saturday, if the temperature is a bit warmer :? I don't think I need stainless, but is there a place that sells preformed steel exhaust systems for '59s?

The doggone radiator seems to have sprung another leak, in yet another spot. Should I get it recored, or are there aftermarket versions? Are there radiators from other years, that would come close? (Remember that it's automatic, and needs to cool the trans fluid.)

I also have a steering fluid leak, that I think is coming from my lower steering column seal -- again, I'll check on Saturday. Where's a good place to get one of those?

I guess that's about it, except I plan to replace the rear brake shoes too -- I suspect they grab a bit because the cylinder leak I had, soaked the shoes -- and scuffing the surface with emory is not going to cure the problem; replacing them is. I think I'll do this myself though. (I called Frank Todd, Ed, I'll find out tomorrow if he has stock. If not -- I'll be needing these too, NAPA doesn't have 'em anymore.)

I guess that's about it. Any advice welcome...

Dan

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:07 pm
by Nighthawk
Id recore that rad Dan, no point in keeping on patching it up.
As far as the exhaust, since your car (and both mine) are drivers, get what you feel it needs and dont worry about originality there. i was lucky when i replaced my exhaust, the guy had a NOS muffler for old Plymouth and Dodge cars from the 50s, so i was able to get that, but again, its a driver, so who would notice??

Bob

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:50 am
by sportfury1959
Dan,

Time to get real - hm? Ok, here we go:

1. Muffler – sorry can’t help you. Anything is ok – depends on you taste loud or quiet.

2. Radiator – I wouldn’t go for a new one, but rebuilt your original. A professional shop can disassemble your radiator, clean it and assemble it again and you get it as good as new. They just remove the top and bottom cover and hot tank the core to clean it inside and out. Then they replace bad tubes, sold it together and paint it black. It might be a little more expensive than a new one, but you don’t have to worry about the fittings for the oil- and water connection bolts, mounting holes, distance to fan, etc, etc. (That’s my European opinion, you know what I mean – shipping, custom fees, running buddies, …)

3. Shocks - As you know I bought a set of gas-a-just shocks from KYB for the front end. KYB has also a set of rear shocks for our car. I think Faulkner could use a set of theses gas shocks – the tail is hanging down with 4 people in it and touches every second curb (Gas station around the corner). If you give me some weeks I’ll tell you about my experience with these shocks, ok?

4. Leaking PS Unit - I know a specialist in Portugal. (no kidding) If it’s leaking on the bottom seal, then it is very simply but may become very complicated. There is a big nut that holds the steering arm. Usually you can open the nut with a long torque wrench, but the steering arm may not want to come off and needs a lot WD 40 or even a puller and heat to pop off. DONT HAMMER THE SHAFT!!! If you come so far I’ll take pictures to show you how the rest is done. It’s very easy and doesn’t take mote than one hour, ok in your case one afternoon :twisted: ! You get the seal from Napa or any good hardware store. I think I still have one in by garage. If you want I’ll take the size.

ATT: DO NOT remove or unbolt the PS-Unit to change the bottom seal!

Stefan

Oh yes! If you change the rear bumper, why don’t you take all the chrome off and spend two litres of FRESSSHHH, GLOSSY, BLOOODRED PAINT?

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:50 am
by Dick Koch
Hi Dan - Here's my 2 cents.

1. Any good muffler shop can replace what you need but I do recommend a set of Smithy (smitties) Mufflers. They are straight thru with no back pressure whatsoever which gives a tad more power. The sound is a sweet, low pure rumble, no backtalk, no spitting, popping or cracking.

2. Radiator - get it recored, and if possible add another row of tubes.

3. Shocks - Gas shocks are good. If weak rear springs you may want to consider air shocks.

4. When my power steering crashed I was able to get a complete seal and gasket kit from NAPA.

Good luck and have fun.
Dickl

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:42 pm
by sportfury1959
Smitties - coooool! That's what I'll find in a parcel that comes next week! :)

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:08 pm
by savvy59
Yes, I agree Smitty's are the way to go. You must have dual exhaust - no single exhaust for a '50's V8 car. I have a real nice version of "smitties" on my car for over 10 years now from a company called brockman mellowtone.

I used the steel packs but they are slightly louder than glass packs. I also paired mine up with 3" x 24" Echo cans - Can you say LOUD??? My five year old Daughter won't go near this car because it is just too loud for her. This is what happens when you try and compete in muffler rapping contests with the big blocks and you are running an anemic 1976 version 318!

Anyway the Brockman family can set you up with a superior quality and great sounding muffler - just give them a call. I would suggest a longer glass pack muffler for a deeper quieter sound.

BROCKMAN MELLOW TONE
Mufflers & Custom
Accessories

940 S. Washington Street
Hagerstown, IN 47346-9609
Phone & Fax # 765-489-4111
Email: cj.brockman@verizon.net
Visit our Website at:

http://brockmancustomparts.com

How We Make The Mufflers

All Brockman Mellow Tone Mufflers Are Constructed
Entirely of 14 Gauge steel. The Core is twisted by hand
when we punch the louvers, to give the muffler that
deep mellow sound.
Glass Pack: Glass packing has a melt point of 1250
They have a very deep mellow sound.
Steel Pack: Steel Packing is #5 Carbon Steel Strand.
They are slightly louder than the glass packs, but
still have that deep mellow sound.
We Can Custom Make To Your Specifications.


Happy hunting - you won't be sorry these are real nice people to deal with and have a great product.

Curt in MD
[/url]

springtime fixup

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:35 pm
by rogerh
Dan,
I thought your car had a single exhaust? Converting to dual exhaust on a 318 is tricky. I did it on my last car, but whatever you do, do NOT use Kepich.
A reputable exhaust shop which still uses mandrels and bending machines can fix you up. Ask Ed Ober for references.
I bought shocks for my car from Andy Bernbaum.
So your car's steering column seal leaks..ugh. My pump leaks. I've added all sorts of additives, changed fluids twice...I think I may finally have stopped it now using Lucas Sealer (Napa).
I believe brake shoes can be cleaned by a good soaking with spraycan brake cleaner..emory paper does nothing to wash out the brake fluid.
as for the radiator, it is time to re-core or replace. I can get it re-cored here in Seattle but the shipping would get spendy. I have a radiator out back but I don't recall if it is for the 59 318 or what. Remind me where the inlet and outlet are located and I can check, or I can simply send you a picture of the radiator in question.
PS I am not receiving any of these posts via Email. I have to go to the website to see these. Is that correct?

Re: springtime fixup

Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 8:42 am
by Faulkner
rogerh wrote:Dan,
I thought your car had a single exhaust? Converting to dual exhaust on a 318 is tricky. I did it on my last car, but whatever you do, do NOT use Kepich.
No, actually it's a dual exhaust, Roger. Weren't all V-800's (Sport Fury) dual exhaust?
rogerh wrote:So your car's steering column seal leaks..ugh. My pump leaks. I've added all sorts of additives, changed fluids twice...I think I may finally have stopped it now using Lucas Sealer (Napa).
Hmmm... Hadn't actually tried a sealer. Perhaps I should try that.
rogerh wrote:PS I am not receiving any of these posts via Email. I have to go to the website to see these. Is that correct?
(*sigh*) This is for the same reason you are not getting emails from the mailing list, Roger. Comcast (your service provider) keeps blacklisting my service provider (ix webhosting), because other accounts ix has are spammers. I keep complaining, but it seems to do little good.

Note that you'll only get an email notification of a reply, only after you've posted or if you've replied to a post. You won't be notified of posts you're not attached to in some way -- these you'll have to see by visiting the main forum page.

Dan

Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 9:11 pm
by Fins59
I too thought that all 59 Sport Furys - 318 or 361 came with dual exhaust. As for shocks - AutoZone has them but you may have to order - Gabriels - $14.99 ea. front & rear. I replaced a seal on my pwr steering box a few years ago. Actually can't remember details but there are 2 places on the box where they leak. I replaced the easy seal myself but after reinstalling box it leaked in the other spot. That one is harder or the book instructions scared me so I took box to the local Chrysler/Plymouth dealer and they fixed that one. I think it was $80. If you take out the box yourself, remember to mark the steering shaft and reinstall it the correct way, otherwise your horn ring that says "Plymouth" will be upside down.

dual exhaust

Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:23 am
by rogerh
Great tips, thanks from your fellow listmembers.
I had a Belvedere 2ht w/ 318, it had single exhaust. I would have to study my literature for evidence on the dual exhaust question.

dual exhaust

Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:25 pm
by rogerh
Now it is bugging me..did all Furys have dual exhaust? Or was it all Fury V-800s? I cannot find literature that explains it.
Roger

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:31 am
by sportfury1959
Just one word regarding the Gabriel shocks. I have them too, but they are too weak for this car and the body rolls very much. I would never buy them again, despite the cheap price.

Regarding the sealer: That's not a good idea Dan it will leak again. The seal has a purpose - do it once and do it right!

Stefan

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 4:13 pm
by Dick Koch
If im not mistaken all Sport Fury's came with 318 V800 power pack or 395 Golden Commando (361 CI) both with duals.

The Fury came with any engine you opted for but the 318 came with either 2 bbl. carb, single exhaust or v800 power pack with dual exhaust.
Dick

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:18 pm
by Faulkner
OK, I took the advice of most folks and bought a pair of "Smitties" from Summit, just like the ones Stefan bought. I also bought KYB gas shocks for front and rear. (I went with their recommendation for 59 Plymouth, Stefan -- 343159 for the front, KG5511 for the rear. Not sure where you got the KG4507 part number for the front. Heavy duty?) So I'll take these parts to a local muffler shop soon and get them installed, along with new lead and tail pipes.

I'm going to take Ed's advice, and have P/S leak fixed by the guy who put the motor in. That leaves the radiator...

I thought there might be a suitable new replacement for it, but I can't find one -- so I guess I'll get it recored. Anyone have any recommendations for someone who can do this in the Philly environs, or at least in the Northeast part of the country? I really don't want to send it to California (or, the Netherlands :P )

Dan

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 6:26 pm
by Nighthawk
Dan,

Pretty much any reputable rad shop local to you can do that job, just tell them to make sure they dont "stretch" it when they recore it, when i had my 58 Chev i had to get the rad recored, and they had "stretched" it,so when i went to put it back it in, it wouldnt bolt back in using the original holes, and had to make a couple of new ones.......

Bob