'59 Plymouth Forum

Dan, Gino - I really don't know if the drums came either way, my Plymouth's have bolts, my Desoto has studs. Gino you keep using the word hub which I think is leading to some confusion. What you are referring to is the BRAKE DRUM, the HUB is riveted to the brake drum and tapered to fit on the axle shaft. The drum/hub assembly apparently was not torqued down enough as per Specifications and is inherently unsafe unless torqued properly. You can drive the studs out with a heavy hammer but if not supported properly there is a huge risk of distorting the drum and not worth it, those drums are hard to come by. Most machine shops can supply the studs or know where to find them.
Good Luck,
Dick.

Hi Dick,

You are right, I think the terms I use are incorrect. Certainly will remove and have a machine shop remove the studs and replace with correct. thanks!

Gino

The majority of the '59's I have had here used studs, although I have seen them with bolts, too. I believe it had to do with whatever supplier was closest to the assembly plant in question.

'57 and '58 models I have only seen with lug bolts.

---John

A couple more quick questions... Do I need any type of puller to get the Drum off to remove the bolts. I have the brake drum off already. What I see is a cotter pin with a castle type of nut, which appears to be loose. Anything I may be unsure of


Thanks again all...!

Gino

ginog01 wrote:A couple more quick questions... Do I need any type of puller to get the Drum off to remove the bolts. I have the brake drum off already. What I see is a cotter pin with a castle type of nut, which appears to be loose. Anything I may be unsure of

I'm a bit confused, Gino...

ginog01 wrote:Do I need any type of puller to get the Drum off to remove the bolts...

ginog01 wrote:I have the brake drum off already.

Is the drum on, or is it off?

The fact that the cotter pin and castle nut are still on, suggests to me that the drum is still on. And yes, you will need a puller to remove it, as demostrated in that video. You'll want to reverse the castle nut to protect the tongues on the nut, and bring it flush with the axle threads to protect the threads.

Perhaps a picture or two of your setup will clarify your situation.

Dan

I think l may know what's going on. Gino may have studs pressed in the hub and a drum that slips over the studs. I come to this conclusion because he previously said the drum came off with a light tap on the corner and it seems like if the drum is off he is looking at the hub only with five studs the castle nut and cotter pin still intact. If so he can still use the drum puller on three good studs making sure the castle nut is backed off 1/8" and the threads on the end of the axle shaft are protected from distortion by the force of the puller. All of this is a best guess. Gino we really need some pictures to really help you.
Dick

I will try to get you all pictures before the weekend. Thanks!!

Gino

Hi All,

I had zero issues removing the brake drum and removed the studs at my sons shop. Everything is all set to go, I have to find 2 R studs and nuts to get it back together. I am going to try auto parts store. cleaning up the parts this weekend and putting together next week. I am also going to paint the wheels, balance ( road force) and rotate. Proper air pressure seems to be 22 front and 24 rear, according to parts book from mopar. I bled the brakes and clean fluid and good tight pedal.... Hope to complete and run this fall!! Thank you for your replies and support!!!

Gino