Autochoke troubles on 2 barrel carb
Beth, don't rule out an electrical problem! Even with fouled plugs...
Pull a wire off one of the plugs, and hold it close to the block. Be sure your fingers aren't near the exposed metal! Then, have someone crank...
If you don't get a spark, you're barking up the wrong tree with fuel as the culprit. Likely, it's points (Mopars are notorious for point drift). If you do get spark -- well, then, carry on with the fuel recommendations! But, checking spark is easy; you should do that first.
Just my $0.02!
Dan
Pull a wire off one of the plugs, and hold it close to the block. Be sure your fingers aren't near the exposed metal! Then, have someone crank...
If you don't get a spark, you're barking up the wrong tree with fuel as the culprit. Likely, it's points (Mopars are notorious for point drift). If you do get spark -- well, then, carry on with the fuel recommendations! But, checking spark is easy; you should do that first.
Just my $0.02!
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: Autochoke troubles on 2 barrel carb
Oops. I guess I should learn to read more carefully!4dHT wrote:... My body guy came over yesterday and checked the spark with a plug out--my coil is working.
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Autochoke troubles
Dan: It is good advice anyway,and hey-unlike some of my art school students-at least you CAN READ!
Sigh. Poor Wanda.
Re: Autochoke
Hi Beth,4dHT wrote:
her up and down my driveway and the street before the bodywork guy
gets her, or we get a nice New England blizzard. I don't need the brakes to rust anymore! Beth. I hope things are good with you!
We are doing fine, just too busy and we do miss the Morton's! You got to speed up things to get the car ready next summer, matthew and me will be coming to Carlisle again
If you get fuel out of the fuel line when it is disconnected you will have to buy a carb kit. It will be an easy fix, just make pictures while you disconnect the linkage and when disassembling the carb. The problem might be the accelerator plunger or dirt in the nozzles. If there is too much dirt in the nozzles there will be no (or very little) fuel spraying in the carb. Maybe just blowing some air through the nozzles can be enough.
If you open a carb kit be careful, there are real small parts in it that can make you search on the floor for an hour when they fall. I am talking from experience
Ron
Cars are to be Enjoyed, not Admired...
Re: Autochoke
Flattery will get you everywhere, Ron! We're looking forward to "Dutch Invasion, Part II".Ron Keij wrote: We are doing fine, just too busy and we do miss the Morton's! You got to speed up things to get the car ready next summer, matthew and me will be coming to Carlisle again
And Ron's right, Beth -- you simply have to come to Carlisle, with or without Wanda (preferably, with). We need to start building a '59 Plymouth contingent at Carlisle, now...
(hear me, Roger?!)
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Autochoke problems
Hi everyone. Last weekend (Nov. 10/11) changed fuel filter (I hadan extra one) old filter was completely dry. No gas leaking out of lines or dripping out of filter or even smell of gas with old filter. Put gas in carb twice. NO go. Sat. 18th, Rick's friend Dave came over. We put starter fluid on the carb. We then put gas in the carb, for 5 tries. She backfired a few times, but as soon as gas evaporates--nothing. The car had a good 3/4 of a soda bottle of gas poured in ---enough for the pump to have
been primed. I think either 1) fuel pump is defective or 2) I have crud
somewhere in the lines. This weekend I will disconnect linkage at filter and try pedal and then do same at carb to be triple sure. Sigh. I would have loved to have gotten Louise out of the garage! My bodyg uy will be towing Wanda beginning of Dec. Will of course keep posting. Beth.
Autochoke troubles
: Missed reading a few intervening messages--Dan you are not the
only one who can screw up on this ---- computer stuff! Roger and Ron,
you are right, I want desperately to go to Carlisyle this coming year.
Give me some directions when we get closer, even if I have to drive my 91 Buick down, I don't care, of course I would like to see Wanda get more ready this Spring. And I want to see some 59 Plymouths BAD! This greeat unlike Nov. weather has been pure torture for me, not being able to drive EITHER of my old gals. I feel like I have a Forward Look Curse on me or something! I will park Wanda on the grass when she is able to go so I don't block Louise. To hell with the lawn-crazed neighbors! LOL Beth.
Missed reading a few intervening messages--Dan you are not theonly one who can screw up on this ---- computer stuff! Roger and Ron,
you are right, I want desperately to go to Carlisyle this coming year.
Give me some directions when we get closer, even if I have to drive my 91 Buick down, I don't care, of course I would like to see Wanda get more ready this Spring. And I want to see some 59 Plymouths BAD! This greeat unlike Nov. weather has been pure torture for me, not being able to drive EITHER of my old gals. I feel like I have a Forward Look Curse on me or something! I will park Wanda on the grass when she is able to go so I don't block Louise. To hell with the lawn-crazed neighbors! LOL Beth.
Re: Autochoke troubles
Then Carlisle's the place for you, Beth...4dHT wrote:...And I want to see some 59 Plymouths BAD!
Let's see you in this picture next year!
Dan
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
new gas tank, new fuel lines, new fuel pump, new fuel filter...
You didnt say if teh fuel tank sending unit is new..I would be PO'ed if I paid someone to installl a new gas tank, and they "forgot" to check the sending unit for clogs..
Hey, is there fuel in the tank?
Pouring gas down the carburetor will not prime the fuel pump. The fuel float in the carb is a one-way valve.
If I were there, I'd disconnect the fuel line BEFORE The fuel pump and blow compressed air back toward the tank. Then I'd connect a funnel to that line and fill the line with gasoline. I'd re-connect that line. I'd do the same procedure to the line after the fuel pump, then I'd put some fuel into the carb and try to start it.
The rainy season is here with vengeance, so I can't work on my car.
You didnt say if teh fuel tank sending unit is new..I would be PO'ed if I paid someone to installl a new gas tank, and they "forgot" to check the sending unit for clogs..
Hey, is there fuel in the tank?
Pouring gas down the carburetor will not prime the fuel pump. The fuel float in the carb is a one-way valve.
If I were there, I'd disconnect the fuel line BEFORE The fuel pump and blow compressed air back toward the tank. Then I'd connect a funnel to that line and fill the line with gasoline. I'd re-connect that line. I'd do the same procedure to the line after the fuel pump, then I'd put some fuel into the carb and try to start it.
The rainy season is here with vengeance, so I can't work on my car.
autochoke troubles
Roger: Thank you for the info about the gas in the carb not being enough to prime the pump. I did not know that. You are right asking about the fuel tank sending unit. It looked clean and the piece in the tank also looked clean when I took the tank to my regular shop to get it installed. There is 12-13 gallons of gas in the tank. I added some dry gas also. Will try the compressed air, I hope tommorow afternoon. Tommorow is supposed to be chilly but no rain for Connecticut. Happy Thanksgiving,everbody take a ride in your 59 for Wanda! Beth.
The DriGas will have no effect on a blocked line.
It makes no sense to me that you can't get gasoline to come up the line from the tank!
Compressed air is a convenient and fairly safe way to check for blockages. Remember to remove the gas tank cap before you begin.
Here are some more thoughts:
1)The sending unit in the tank originally had a screen over the end of the pickup tube. That might be blocked w/ crud.
2) we know you bought your tank from Mopar Mel..I hope the tank was decent inside, and didn't shed a bunch of rust which is now blocking your "pickup tube". MM sold me a carb that had broken flanges..it was inoperable...I mean come ON!
Moral: Never assume he is sending you operable parts.
3) New fuel lines- you said Wanda has them. The fuel line is metal tubing in places and rubber tubing in other places. What is new on Wanda? The old rubber tubing can turn to gook ON THE INSIDES with the modern gasolines..this gook will block the fuel flow...it can also cause tubing failure (and a fire). If the metal tubing is old, it can rust from the inside. If it is kinked/pinched, obviously you will not get fuel flow.
4) "Priming" a pump means filling the pump chamber with liquid. Air bubbles, large or small, ruin the pump function. Think of a Windex spraybottle...It won't spray unless there is liquid in the pump.
(One way to "prime" a fuel pump is to pressurize your gas tank while cranking the engine. The added air pressure forces gasoline up the line and into the pump, and things would get going from there, if you simultanously crank the stater. Pressuriizing a tank isn't easy for the average guy. So try to blow out the fuel line w/ compressed air..you'll hear the bubbling in the tank if the line is clear... the only problem is you will have blown the crud back into the tank, leading to future blockages)
Happy Thanksgiving! I hope you can take Wanda over the river and thru the woods before the snow flies.........
It makes no sense to me that you can't get gasoline to come up the line from the tank!
Compressed air is a convenient and fairly safe way to check for blockages. Remember to remove the gas tank cap before you begin.
Here are some more thoughts:
1)The sending unit in the tank originally had a screen over the end of the pickup tube. That might be blocked w/ crud.
2) we know you bought your tank from Mopar Mel..I hope the tank was decent inside, and didn't shed a bunch of rust which is now blocking your "pickup tube". MM sold me a carb that had broken flanges..it was inoperable...I mean come ON!
Moral: Never assume he is sending you operable parts.
3) New fuel lines- you said Wanda has them. The fuel line is metal tubing in places and rubber tubing in other places. What is new on Wanda? The old rubber tubing can turn to gook ON THE INSIDES with the modern gasolines..this gook will block the fuel flow...it can also cause tubing failure (and a fire). If the metal tubing is old, it can rust from the inside. If it is kinked/pinched, obviously you will not get fuel flow.
4) "Priming" a pump means filling the pump chamber with liquid. Air bubbles, large or small, ruin the pump function. Think of a Windex spraybottle...It won't spray unless there is liquid in the pump.
(One way to "prime" a fuel pump is to pressurize your gas tank while cranking the engine. The added air pressure forces gasoline up the line and into the pump, and things would get going from there, if you simultanously crank the stater. Pressuriizing a tank isn't easy for the average guy. So try to blow out the fuel line w/ compressed air..you'll hear the bubbling in the tank if the line is clear... the only problem is you will have blown the crud back into the tank, leading to future blockages)
Happy Thanksgiving! I hope you can take Wanda over the river and thru the woods before the snow flies.........
Hey Roger,
Why not just jump on a plane and get Wanda fixed up - you are certainly a wealth of information.
I can't really speak for the wide blocks - old fuel pumps and older model carbs. My car has the 1976 318 and newer style holley fuel pump and a crapped-out Holley 600 CFM electric choke carb. A new Edelbrock 600 CFM will be next.
My car was sitting two full years and we were able to prime everything but it took 6 or more tries of dumping fuel in the carb. After it fired and ran - the accelerator pump was laquered tight. We forced that loose but the car still did not run properly past the idle RPMs.
There is still hope for Wanda, it is just figuring out why she can't get a drink!
Curt from a Seatlle day in Maryland 39 -- degrees and raining!
Why not just jump on a plane and get Wanda fixed up - you are certainly a wealth of information.
I can't really speak for the wide blocks - old fuel pumps and older model carbs. My car has the 1976 318 and newer style holley fuel pump and a crapped-out Holley 600 CFM electric choke carb. A new Edelbrock 600 CFM will be next.
My car was sitting two full years and we were able to prime everything but it took 6 or more tries of dumping fuel in the carb. After it fired and ran - the accelerator pump was laquered tight. We forced that loose but the car still did not run properly past the idle RPMs.
There is still hope for Wanda, it is just figuring out why she can't get a drink!
Curt from a Seatlle day in Maryland 39 -- degrees and raining!
There's Nothing Finer Than My '59er!
Autochoke troubles
Roger: Wanda has all new fuel lines, both rubber and metal. I can't get the rubber off the metal behind the fuel pump. I got the clamp off no problem, but I can't budge the rubber section off. It looks like the rubber was REALLY crimped onto the line. I can't wiggle it free and pliers appliedgently didn't work either. I mean it won't bduge ... I blew out the line from the fuel filter to the carb. I tried gas down carb again , same result--runs strong--then dies. I think I have no choice but to wait for my body guy to come and tow Wanda. As for the gas tank, my shop went through it before they put it on. I will have the tank dropped and made sure it is ok and the sender too, as well as also the fuel pump checked. Rick's friend Dave suggested that it takes
usually more than a month or two for a fuel pump to get varnished/lacquered up? Screen clogged? We tapped on the pump to see if that would get rid of any minor clogging.
You don't know how frustrated I am! All this --wonderful-- weather!
Beth.