time for a tune up. need advice.
time for a tune up. need advice.
hi guys. i was driving the fury when i noticed a few engine related problems. these are a few of the symptoms.
1. off ido,when the engine is warm, the engine seems to cut out for a second and then keeps going.
2. at around 55/60 mph it sounds like i making popcorn. acceleration is very slow
3. 40 or more cranks to start it when cold ( if it has not been started for a few days)
4. somtimes the transmission will not shift properly , it will rev out in 1st gear and then lurch into 2nd. sometimes when i first put it in drive it seems like the clutch is slipping, the engine revs ,but the car moves very slowly. somdays the transmission works flawlessly. when the tranny isnt shifting right, i have to put it in neutral at a stop light, then when i put it back into drive i can feel a noticable shake throughout the car.
i had a garage do some minor work, the engine used to tick pretty loudly, i have since been told that the 318 has to tick to run properly.12 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust? the shop adjusted them so that there is no ticking. i suspect that they are to tight.
i have also bought an aluminum distributor and a pertronix kit.
any tune up help would be gratly appreciated.
thanks guys.
curt
1. off ido,when the engine is warm, the engine seems to cut out for a second and then keeps going.
2. at around 55/60 mph it sounds like i making popcorn. acceleration is very slow
3. 40 or more cranks to start it when cold ( if it has not been started for a few days)
4. somtimes the transmission will not shift properly , it will rev out in 1st gear and then lurch into 2nd. sometimes when i first put it in drive it seems like the clutch is slipping, the engine revs ,but the car moves very slowly. somdays the transmission works flawlessly. when the tranny isnt shifting right, i have to put it in neutral at a stop light, then when i put it back into drive i can feel a noticable shake throughout the car.
i had a garage do some minor work, the engine used to tick pretty loudly, i have since been told that the 318 has to tick to run properly.12 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust? the shop adjusted them so that there is no ticking. i suspect that they are to tight.
i have also bought an aluminum distributor and a pertronix kit.
any tune up help would be gratly appreciated.
thanks guys.
curt
Curt, it sounds like your points are in need of adjustment or replacing. This could also cause the hard starting when cold, although that is usually symptomatic of a choke that is out of adjustment. When was your last tune up? If it has been quite a while, I would have the points and condenser, plugs and plug wires, cap and rotor, and fuel filter [if your car has one inline] replaced. As to the trans problem, first check to be sure that the fluid is full. Also, smell the fluidto be sure it is not burnt, and make sure it is still a bright red color. You may need to have the trans serviced and filter changed, or this could be a sign of a clutch pack wearing out. There are band adjustments, so have a reputable shop check this out. If the engine valves are adjusted properly, the ticking should be for the most part, inaudible. Hope this helps, John
In rust we trust!
thanks John. i am going to install the electronic ignition in the next week or two.
we had the tranny rebuilt probably less than 200 miles ago. unfortunatley we only drove the car to a few shows last year and the one year warranty has passed. the fluid looks good and doesnt smell burnt. so thats why i am suspeting that the shop did not adjust the linkage correctly. i hope thats it, as the shop soaked us on the rebuild.
we had the tranny rebuilt probably less than 200 miles ago. unfortunatley we only drove the car to a few shows last year and the one year warranty has passed. the fluid looks good and doesnt smell burnt. so thats why i am suspeting that the shop did not adjust the linkage correctly. i hope thats it, as the shop soaked us on the rebuild.
Mmmm, the motor should not have valve gear noise, there should be very little noise from a motor with hydraulic tappets, mayde your lifters are slightly worn? Should be an easy fix really.
Hope you get it running well dude
I would not get involved wih electronic ignition on a car of this nature, its not worth it what do you feel you will gain from it?
Points are fine for a poly motor, its a very lazy motor- very laid back.
I am no auto trans expert but it sounds like a sticking valve or somthing like that, sounds like youre going back to te guys who built your trans.
Are you saying on your second point that your car is pre igniting? too advanced?
I am assuming your car is running a poly though theese points sould cover any old engine.
You say the engine cuts out from idle nearly, explain a bit more. Is the carb at fault? could be running weak through its range
Hope you get it running well dude
I would not get involved wih electronic ignition on a car of this nature, its not worth it what do you feel you will gain from it?
Points are fine for a poly motor, its a very lazy motor- very laid back.
I am no auto trans expert but it sounds like a sticking valve or somthing like that, sounds like youre going back to te guys who built your trans.
Are you saying on your second point that your car is pre igniting? too advanced?
I am assuming your car is running a poly though theese points sould cover any old engine.
You say the engine cuts out from idle nearly, explain a bit more. Is the carb at fault? could be running weak through its range
you bet, its a poly 318. and off of a dead start it hesitates almost to the point where it feels like the engine is going to stall, then it pics back up again, this only happens for a split second. i have ordered a carb rebuild kit and new spark plug wires. the car idles well, nice and smooth and quiet. i got the info on valve clearance from a old mopar friend that i have met through car shows. he has a service bulletin that has all the info, apparently the clearances help more for throttle responce, and he says that there should be a slightly audible tick.he has dealt with poly's all his life, his dad was a mopar dealer back in the day.
im hoping that by changing over to an electronic ignition, i will avoid problems with points in the future. this engine may be lazy but it should have way more "go". i have a friend that has a 4 door 72' fury with an LA 318 and his car absolutley kicks my fury's @ss. i dont want to race or anything , this is a classic cruiser , but i would like it to perform like a v-8 should.
i'm thinking that it is not advancing, so i bought a new vacume advance (they are cheap anyways). i should get at everything and have it ready by the end of the month.
im hoping that by changing over to an electronic ignition, i will avoid problems with points in the future. this engine may be lazy but it should have way more "go". i have a friend that has a 4 door 72' fury with an LA 318 and his car absolutley kicks my fury's @ss. i dont want to race or anything , this is a classic cruiser , but i would like it to perform like a v-8 should.
i'm thinking that it is not advancing, so i bought a new vacume advance (they are cheap anyways). i should get at everything and have it ready by the end of the month.
she's got a 2 barrel. i have a line on a 4 barrel carb, manifold and air cleaner from a mopar guy up here. what do you think, would the conversion be wort it? i am going to the back to the 50'a in st paul , minnesota, i can probably find a cam there.
i am also going to be doing a compression test probably this weekend coming up or next.
i am also going to be doing a compression test probably this weekend coming up or next.
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sportfury1959
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 11:25 am
- Location: Portugal
Matty
The 318 Poly-engine has solid not hydraulic lifters.
Curt,
Regardless what people say, the 318 is NOT a weak engine! The 318 is an economic engine that allows good performance and good mileage at the same time. As you describe the weak performance of your car, the reason lies in my opinion mainly in the engine. Distributor advance or Pertronix won’t hurt but will not solve your problem here. Also a 4-bbl carburetor and intake manifold are not the origin of weak performance.
- How many miles does your 318 have?
- Was the engine overhauled before?
- What is the compression at operating temperature? (Carburetor open)
Stefan
The 318 Poly-engine has solid not hydraulic lifters.
Curt,
Regardless what people say, the 318 is NOT a weak engine! The 318 is an economic engine that allows good performance and good mileage at the same time. As you describe the weak performance of your car, the reason lies in my opinion mainly in the engine. Distributor advance or Pertronix won’t hurt but will not solve your problem here. Also a 4-bbl carburetor and intake manifold are not the origin of weak performance.
- How many miles does your 318 have?
- Was the engine overhauled before?
- What is the compression at operating temperature? (Carburetor open)
Stefan
Stephan , the engine has 67,000 miles on the odometer, i dont know if that is original or not. the engine is very clean, all levels are good, it doesnt burn oil and there are no leaks of any kind that i can detect.
i also dont know if it has been rebuilt. i am going to do a compression test in the next week or two.
what kind of compresion should it have? im guessing around 140 lbs?
what would be an aceptable difference between cylinders?
i know that the 318 is not weak, i driven a 58' 313 punched out to a 318 and it hauled @$$.
i just ordered a book from victory publishing on the 318 poly. anyone else read this book?
i also dont know if it has been rebuilt. i am going to do a compression test in the next week or two.
what kind of compresion should it have? im guessing around 140 lbs?
what would be an aceptable difference between cylinders?
i know that the 318 is not weak, i driven a 58' 313 punched out to a 318 and it hauled @$$.
i just ordered a book from victory publishing on the 318 poly. anyone else read this book?
according to my specs the 318 poly should have at a min. cranking speed of 150 rpm, plugs removed, wide open throttle 125-165 psi. max variation between cylinders is 15 psi.
i've heard people say the 318 poly is pretty powerful for it's size. it ain't no BB, but neither is it's gas consumption. u would be suprised with what a properly tuned engine w/ a good intake and carb can do, i used to have a 2 brl on my afformentioned 305 chev(supposedly a weak motor) in my '78 omega, with a few performance upgrades (rv cam, edelbrock torqer, holly man choke 600, timing retarded few degrees on chain, 50,000 volt coil, k&n filter). btw, i was suprised how much better airflow i got w/ the k&n, i was running a little rich, granted my old filter was dirty, and the k&n was 1/2 inch taller, but the engine ran a hair lean after i installed it. but anyways, make sure u cam and lifters r up to par, a worn out cam can really alter performance, and be sure to always replace ur timing chain and oil pump if u r doing any kind of freshening up, i have skipped it in the past and paid the price (blown motors). --j
i've heard people say the 318 poly is pretty powerful for it's size. it ain't no BB, but neither is it's gas consumption. u would be suprised with what a properly tuned engine w/ a good intake and carb can do, i used to have a 2 brl on my afformentioned 305 chev(supposedly a weak motor) in my '78 omega, with a few performance upgrades (rv cam, edelbrock torqer, holly man choke 600, timing retarded few degrees on chain, 50,000 volt coil, k&n filter). btw, i was suprised how much better airflow i got w/ the k&n, i was running a little rich, granted my old filter was dirty, and the k&n was 1/2 inch taller, but the engine ran a hair lean after i installed it. but anyways, make sure u cam and lifters r up to par, a worn out cam can really alter performance, and be sure to always replace ur timing chain and oil pump if u r doing any kind of freshening up, i have skipped it in the past and paid the price (blown motors). --j
There will be no bringing her back here, I'm selling this sh**hole and buying me a condo.
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sportfury1959
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 11:25 am
- Location: Portugal
Curt,
The book says that the compression on the 318 should be 125 – 165 psi. In fact that means that 165 psi is the compression of a new engine and 125 psi is lowest tolerance where the engine should be overhauled. Don’t expect performance or good mileage at 125 psi. Anything lower than 105 psi and the engine won’t even fire up anymore.
In your case 140 psi would be a still acceptable compression for a used engine but as you describe your problem I suspect your engine is lower than that.
The difference between the cylinders of a good engine should be as small as possible but never exceed 6 psi.
The book from Victory is one of, probably THE best booklet available for the 318 Polyhead. Although it is lecture for “advanced students” it is very interesting for our purpose - How to build a strong, reliable, economic and from outside a mostly original engine.
Stefan
The book says that the compression on the 318 should be 125 – 165 psi. In fact that means that 165 psi is the compression of a new engine and 125 psi is lowest tolerance where the engine should be overhauled. Don’t expect performance or good mileage at 125 psi. Anything lower than 105 psi and the engine won’t even fire up anymore.
In your case 140 psi would be a still acceptable compression for a used engine but as you describe your problem I suspect your engine is lower than that.
The difference between the cylinders of a good engine should be as small as possible but never exceed 6 psi.
The book from Victory is one of, probably THE best booklet available for the 318 Polyhead. Although it is lecture for “advanced students” it is very interesting for our purpose - How to build a strong, reliable, economic and from outside a mostly original engine.
Stefan
finally got everything done. plugs , wires, and pertronix electronic ignition. wow , what a difference, night and day. the fury now runs like shes supposed to. compression is good,voltage is good. the only thing left is to complete the carburator rebuild.
that 318 sure has a lot of jam for an old engine. transmission still needs adjustment and i have seen some metalic shavings in the fluid. i think this is due to the linkage being out of adjustment.
that 318 sure has a lot of jam for an old engine. transmission still needs adjustment and i have seen some metalic shavings in the fluid. i think this is due to the linkage being out of adjustment.
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sportfury1959
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 11:25 am
- Location: Portugal