I still have so more painting to do on the driver's side - particularly, spray painting with interior frame coating where I can't reach with a brush. But I decided to tackle the passenger side today.
What a mess! That PB Blaster was used today on the manifold bolts, will hit again tomorrowHere's the pile of crud that came raining down. This is not all of it - some remained on mePost chiseling and scraping, using The Weenie Hammer (TM). Tomorrow I'll wire brush and prepare for painting
The 8-point sockets arrived - allowing me to torque down the kickdown bolt. I got high-temp Permatex with teflon, too.
I torqued the bolt to 50 inch pounds, then backed it off - but it felt too wobbly at 3.5 turns. I left it at 1 full turn, and locked down the nut. If this comes back to bite me, I'll experiment some more. I wiped everything down with brake cleaner, tomorrow I'll look for signs of leaks - not expecting one now from this bolt.No scratches or bruises - except for my ego. But I've cleaned up pretty good, time for my Power Nap
Dan, Are you talking about the band adjustment? with the square head? If you are, your adjustment of 3 and 1/2 is correct for the 318 engine. And 2 and 1/4 for the 361 engine. They have different band lever apply lever ratios. One turn is too tight, for either one.
Perhaps I have a problem then, Rick. You'll remember in this post that Dick thought the screw was already too far out. When I snug it up to 50 inch-pounds and start backing it out, I can easily turn it with my fingers after about a turn - and at three and a half, it feels wobbly as if it's going to fall out.
Here's a reference Dick provided in a "How To" post, that shows the kickdown screw in this diagram:
Funny, I could always get it to downshift by punching it. Kinda wishing I never touched it, except that it was leaking.
Dan, it's a cast iron case, it's tough. Relax and try the 2 and 1/4 adjustment. I will look at the pictures again. Remember... each turn is only 1 thread.I I just checked out all transmission related pictures, You have a band that is in good condition, lots of lining. you will be okay. try the 2 and 1/4 first. if it seem a little grabby /rough. try the 3 and 1/2. we don't know if there have up grades or other repairs or changed out. The adjustment bolt is not below fluid level, the shift cable is. adjustment bolts weep bad cables and o rings leak, lots of dripping.
Sounds like a plan, Rick. I'm in my last third of a century now, I should have taken ibuprofen last night. But I'm going to drag my sorry *ss out to the garage now, I can't put it off any longer.
Dan, I am impressed with your drive, as well of choice of vehicles. You are the man! Your thread is really full of great information. Your support team is very knowledgeable. The research is fantastic. In all reality the 59 Torque Flite transmissions were puzzling, two piece valve body or one piece, stator supports were aluminum or cast iron, how many clutch disc? it goes on and on. .... I rebuilt one for a Chrysler Imperial Southampton years ago. must have been through a flood, lots of damage.
Last edited by RICKYMOPAR on Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Rick, you are too kind! Truer words were never written:
RICKYMOPAR wrote:Your support team is very knowledgeable.
That would include you! If it weren't for the folks on this website, I don't know what I'd do. In hindsight, starting the site was the best thing I could have ever done for my car
BTW, I torqued the screw down to 50 in-lb again, backed it off a full 3.5 turns (14 quarter turns to present a new screw face, count 'em), and locked it down just fine. With another dose of teflon.
I guess the leak from the screw must have been when the pumps were running, and there certainly was none here today. None from the pan gasket, either. But, the shifter cable has a spot of transmission fluid on it... (*sigh*). I replaced this o-ring once maybe thirteen years ago, and I found the best way to do it was to drop the pan. Fortunately, I had already ordered both a gasket and a pair of o-rings (there are two sizes) from Fatsco, so I'll add this to my to do list.
More work on the passenger side today, wirebrushing. But I still have miles to go. Next weekend!
Oops! Missed a spot on the tie rod endThe eyebrow is nice and healthy
Dan - You bring back a lot of memories, especially crud in the face. Speaking of faces, what the hell happened to yours, a jack stand fail? Not to worry, you can make it like new with the Holy trinity. Soap & water, Ospho and Encapsulated!
Heh, heh.
Dick
Don't forget mineral spirits, Dick! It's amazing how greasy things get as you move towards the front end.
After I finish treating the passenger side, I'll encapsulate it and the finish the driver's side - all those hard to reach places. That will leave to do:
The center portion, fore of the the transmission tailstock crossmember - the inside frame, crossmembers and linkage;
The door panels and rear window body skins;
The rocker panels - I've discovered the access plug in the rear wheel well, I'm making a rake from all-thread to scrape out as much detritus as I can.
The, go back and hit any spots I've missed, and spray the hell out of the frame and rockers with interior rustproof spray.
Then, on to detail the engine compartment, slap that back together, install the exhaust, install the gas tank, replace the trans o-ring, finish the brakes. That should take me through the winter, and maybe in the spring Faulkner will be ready for the drive to the local body shop for some body work and a paint job. With any luck, I'll have the old boy back together for the 60th Anniversary at Carlisle. Mark it on your calendar, Dick! July, 2019.
All night l was thinking about mineral spirits. Dan l envy you in many ways and to tell you the truth l wish l had another restoration in me but with all the things I still want to do to the cars l have and trying to get Yvonne's Saturn fixed and back on the road and trying to keep up with my perpetual "honey do list" it's out of the question for now. Notice l left the door open! At your current pace you are on a tear and should be ready for Carlisle. I will do my damdest to try and make it myself. Maybe tow the Convertible with the Desoto.
Two things l recommend you add to your list. I reached up as far as l could and with a 2" long handle paint brush and coated with seamsealer the interior of the fender brows and the top of the area over the headlights. Water sits there and is the main cause of rust in that area. For the interior of the rockers after l got as much debris as l could l hosed it out with water real good and after it dried real good with the help of my air hose l coated the interior with Eastwood's coating with the 360 degree nozzle. Easy to do with the drain holes in the bottom and the big hole in the rear.
Keep trucking,
Dick
Dick Koch wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2017 7:24 am
I reached up as far as l could and with a 2" long handle paint brush and coated with seamsealer the interior of the fender brows and the top of the area over the headlights. Water sits there and is the main cause of rust in that area.
Hey, that's a good idea, Dick. I've got long arms - I'm 6' 3" (used to be, anyway) - and I can actually reach in and feel all around the lip. I'll try your trick.
I searched the Forum for a discussion about transmission o-rings, but couldn't find it. It's because it was fourteen years ago that I did it! I found an email on the Forward Look mailing list:
The long string of leaks from Faulkner's underbelly seem to have stopped!
I replaced the o-ring on the pushbutton cable that goes into the adapter housing, filled the tranny and took it for a spin. Shifts great, and no leaks!
Most helpful was Dave Grove's suggestion to drop the transmission pan, on two counts. 1) You can readily release the spring retainer for the pushbutton cable in order to remove (and reinsert) it, and 2) You can easily see if the cable is properly adjusted or not. In Dave's own words: "What you are looking for is that the pointer on the valve body piece (the one the cable snaps into) that contacts the neutral safety switch is perfectly centered on the switch when the "N" button is pushed." I did this, and the buttons work perfectly.
Thanks, Dave.
Now, if the skies don't open up tomorrow, on to the Collingswood Car Show!
Wait... What's that green stuff on the bottom radiator hose?!
Dan
'59 Sport Faulkner
On a lark, I searched for Dave Grove Automotive, and found that he just closed his doors in May. Time, my friends, marches on:
John, the heat hasn't been too unbearable. Danke Gott I don't live in Florida I was going to take the day off, but thought better of it and headed out to the garage.
I finished wirebrushing and treating the passenger side today, tomorrow I encapsulate. But I decided to take a crack at the passenger side manifold today, since I now have a bolt extractor kit. I have been spraying and spraying with PB Blaster.
First I hack-sawed as close as I could to the flange, so I could get the extender for the breaker bar up thereBolt extractor kit to the rescue9/16" is the onethe rear bolt is out!
I tried like hell to get the front bolt out, and the extractor has got a tight grip on the bolt head - but, the torsion bar is in the way of the breaker bar extender to the nut underneath, and I can't get enough leverage on a socket wrench to break the nut loose. I'll try again tomorrow, maybe with a pipe extender on the socket wrench - if, there's enough play.
Another frustrating day, trying to get that front manifold bolt off. At this point, I've managed to burr the nut up pretty good - so, I'm going to have to put the Irwin bolt extractor on the nut to get a good grip. I can see from up top that I can get a 9/16" open end wrench on the head and wedge it against the upper A frame assembly, and maybe get the VP of Finance (or the neighbor's kid) to keep it from drifting with a little pressure.
But the only way to get some clearance for the big-*ss breaker bar to swing, will be to offset the socket extension somehow - the torsion bar is in the way. I think I'm looking for something like this:
But, that is 3/8" male on one end, and 3/8" female on the other. Short, but just long enough to get me clear of the torsion bar while all the pieces parts are dead-on. Does anyone know of such a thing? Any other ideas?
As part of my effort to find room to maneuver, I removed the generator - it's gotta get cleaned up anyway. I wish I took a picture of the plate before I cleaned it with a little brake cleaner - it was completely black! It cleaned up nicely...
This is what I'm tawkin' about!! I could make this work - the socket extractor is 3/8", but with an adapter and a 1/2" extension (all mine are 3/8"), I could use my 1/2" big-*ss breaker bar.
Yow!! Forty-six bucks, including delivery. For that, I'd have to be d*mn sure it's gonna work. Looking for bright ideas from my homies...
If it weren't for the folks on this website, I don't know what I'd do. In hindsight, starting the site was the best thing I could have ever done for my car 
I was going to take the day off, but thought better of it and headed out to the garage.
