Does the collar nut turn or is it welded in place? It looks like that's a stud and should just back out otherwise vice grips or a wedge of some kind should work.
Dick
It's turning with the stud as I turn the bottom nut, Dick. I'm going to try parking a nut or two between the flat side and the rear of the shroud, we'll see how that works out.
We cut away all the material on top as we couldn't reach it with a pair of pliers. Another core support is ready to be mounted though as the old one had a lot of rust holes on the bottom
Well, mine is a little rusty, but salvageable. So, I gave the "wedge a nut in there" trick a try, and doncha know it worked!
It actually popped the back out a tiny bit, and was wedged in there so good I had to take the weenie hammer (TM) to the collar and nut. Im guessing it was spot-welded in there - that collar will be replaced by a nut, fershur.(Note to self: This is how the horns go back on, Dan, don't screw it up.)An interesting find, inside the shroud! I imagine there was a loud "ping" when that fell off and hit the fan, and found a place to hide inside the shroud frame. Fershur, I'll be spraying the hell out of the lower channel with Eastwood interior frame spray.Under the battery is quite a mess - you hate to see things like this. A couple pin holes in the platform, but otherwise solid enough. This will get the usual treatment of power brushing, ospho, seam sealing and encapsulator. (That wet spot is liquid wrench, not battery electrolyte :o )All in all, not a bad day's work - but it's hot in the garage, and I'm getting too old to go without a power nap.
Matthew!! I have a special socket set for those exhaust manifold bolts on the passenger side. I don't care if we snap 'em - the manifold has been drilled out for bolts in replacement of the studs - but I could use some help. Easier to reach from topside with the radiator and shroud out of the way! I'll get from under if you hold the socket in place. Help an old man!
Two suggestions if you dont mind. On the battery tray, ospho, then encapsulator, then coat the whole tray with seamsealer, then rubber tray if you got one from Gary Goers. Keep the manifold bolts/studs soaked with pb blaster. You know l kinda miss doin that stuff. NOT!
DICK
Dick Koch wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2017 5:29 pm
Two suggestions if you dont mind. On the battery tray, ospho, then encapsulator, then coat the whole tray with seamsealer, then rubber tray if you got one from Gary Goers.
Yup! Encapsulator before seam sealer. Then, encapsulator over the seam sealer, jut to match - it covers just fine, after the seam sealer sets up. And yes, I got the rubber tray from Gary.
I didn't know about PB Blaster. Amazon to the rescue!
Dick Koch wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2017 5:29 pmYou know l kinda miss doin that stuff.
I know you do, Dick! And that's why you should be going to Carlisle with us, with a stay at Chez Morton.
Just before Carlisle, I took my radiator to have it re-cored - and, for them to take the dent out of the top tank. The company was highly recommended. Well, they totally screwed up the tank; besides not removing the obvious dent, there's a bunch of little dents on the opposite side, and all along the side of the tank. Instead of taking a rounded block of wood, they used some pointed tool:
Because of city regulations, they can't spray high-gloss paint. But you can see the dents even with the matte finish. No way I can spray this with gloss, without it being obvious that an amateur touched it.
He's promised to make this right, even if he has to replace it. Well, we'll see.
I have a window of time tomorrow morning to drop it off before work, and since Frankford Plating is not too far from the radiator shop, I got my butt down to the basement to prepare the taillight housings.
Dick Koch wrote:As far as the light sockets go find a sacrificial knife in the house, you need to pry up the lip of the socket (no easy task).
Dick! Did you mean from the back of the housing? At first, I was thinking the front - and wondering how the hell I could get a knife under that tight grommet. But I started working from the back, and don't you know, the sockets popped off, leaving the grommet. I was able to grab the lip with needle nose pliers and twist towards the center - the grommet collapsed on itself, and fell through the hole. I have brand new replacement snap-in sockets from Goers, so I just need these pix for reference.
I knew - eventually - I would have to tackle the grimey, greasy front end of Faulkner. And today, I got started.
I had great ambitions of finishing the driver's side fender today, but no such luck. It was all I could do to scrape 58 years worth of caked on grime and dirt from all the front end and steering components. Now to wire brush, wipe with mineral spirits to remove the sheen, ospho and rust encapsulate.
Because I plan to dress up the engine compartment as best I can, I removed all the electricals from the driver's inner fender - labeling the wires as I go. I'll dress these cables, too, with plastic tape - replacing connectors where it's advisable.Here's what I'm faced with...Here's the pile of grime I scraped off on the first passPost scrapingMost of the electrical components should be fine, I'll wire brush and paint. This capacitor on the voltage regulator looks shaky, though - anyone know where I can get a new one?
Not sure who would have a new capacitor, it's basically just a static suppressor for the generator, to improve radio quality.
A trick I use when painting an engine compartment, is to use aluminum foil to whap around harnesses and cables, it takes a half the time as paper and tape, and does a nice job.
big m wrote: ↑Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:19 am
Not sure who would have a new capacitor, it's basically just a static suppressor for the generator, to improve radio quality.
Ah! I remember that. There's one on the generator, too. I guess I'll confirm it's not shorted, dress the cable with heat-shrink tubing and a new terminal, and hang it back on.
big m wrote: ↑Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:19 am
A trick I use when painting an engine compartment, is to use aluminum foil to whap around harnesses and cables, it takes a half the time as paper and tape, and does a nice job.
Hey! That's a handy idea, for all sorts of things. Thanks for the tip, John.
