Long day under Faulkner. Too tired to write much; let the pictures do the talking.
Like, you missed a spot!
Catch 'em on the second coat. Have to do the sides now, between the frame and the rockers. Then I suppose I'll do the trunk and the cab... That line you see between the frame and the floor pan will get hit when I do the floor pan on the other side of the frame
On to the sides between the frame and rockers! Some before pix, both sides:
And after pix:
Something oddly satisfying about scraping rust off! Now, to ospho and paint. But, uh-oh:
Two silver dollar sized holes in the floorboards, each side, right above the reinforcement brackets underneath. Everything else seems very solid. I'm thinking about cleaning up the perimeter, rustproofing some shim stock, and JB Welding to the floorboards. Other ideas?
Faulkner also appears to be leaking some transmission fluid from here as well. What is it for, and how do I remediate?
When I'm done rustproofing under the car, I plan to remove the fenders, detail and rustproof. I'll have the radiator redone, but I've heard it's not good to let a water pump sit without water in it, the seals dry out. As Matthew points out - water pumps are cheap - replace it at the same time. But, what about the trans? I want to drain it to replace the pan gasket, cable o-ring, and whatever I need to do with that plug. Will it hurt the trans to sit without fluid, while I send the radiator out?
Dan - Other than having the holes welded closed l would buy a 12 x 12 inch piece of 18 gauge sheet metal from a big box store or ACE, cut to size, pre-drill for pop rivits. I would also use seam sealer between the metals and coat the entire underside. Water pumps don't use a conventional lip seal, they have a carbon type seal so they will wear out but not age quickly. What looks like a pipe plug is actually the kickdown band adusting screw, look at page 216 in the service manual. The large lockdown nut may just need tightening dont move the adusting screw.. It won't hurt the tranny to sit with no oil but l would not leave it without the pan on it.
Have fun,
Dick
Dan - Looking at the expanded view of the adjusting screw it looks like it may have backed out some. Has your passing gear been working, if not it's easy to adjust. I got a inch pound torque wrench at harbor freight.
Dick
There is so much thread showing on the adjusting screw make sure the large lockdown nut did not come off????? I see what could be the lockdown nut or is that part of the housing??
Dick
Dick, you see the lockdown nut. I had the trans rebuilt ten years ago after the "Breakdown at Valley Forge". It's been shifting fine ever since, apart from the fact that it's been incontinent, and I've never gotten around to addressing it.
Dan - Have you used your passing gear lately. When you press the gas pedal to the floor the kick down band kicks down the tranny into 2nd gear Re. passing. Give it a try when you are back on the road.
Dick
The last time I had it to Carlisle (2015), I punched it on the Turnpike - I do every year. It dropped down fine then, as it has every year since the rebuild. It hasn't been driven much since then, that was July and I started tearing Faulkner down in August. But fershur, I will check that after I get back on the road.
Another long day in the garage. My, how times have changed...
It warmed up into the seventies, but it's a harbinger of things to come. The garage used to have some 220v electric baseboard space heaters, looks like I'll be hooking some of them up soon.
The undercarriage is now completely scraped, osphoed and painted up to the steering linkage. Next, I'll tackle the interior and trunk - need to buy another gallon of encapsulator - then, remove the fenders and get to work on detailing the front end.
I snugged up the lockdown nut on the kickdown band adjustment bolt - I was able to get maybe an eighth of a turn on it. I wiped it up real well, and came back to it the next day:
So, it's weeping from the threads. But, obviously the bolt is into the housing - I wouldn't have been able to lean the wrench on that lockdown nut if it weren't. So, here's my plan: After I drain the trans, I'll remove the lockdown nut while holding the bolt in place. I'll then count the quarter turns to back the bolt out. I'll then put some high-temp teflon tape on the threads, put it back where it was, and lock it down again.
If I have shifting problems - and again, I didn't, last time I punched it - I won't have changed the adjustment this way, and I can address it then. But at least I'll have stopped the leak. Whadaya think, Doc?
