Faulkner gets a Redo
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Take a dentist pick or something pointy, clean the paint out of the grooves, go turn on your air compressor and get your little air impact screwdriver. That is if you have one??? Don't forget your new shop vac is also a shop blower. As far as the domestic stuff A HAPPY WIFE, A HAPPY LIFE.
Dick
Dick
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Yeah, that wasn't paint in the groove, Dick - it was rust. The wire wheel on the drill cleaned it off pretty well, I just couldn't get my fat fingers in the groove with Ospho - took a screwdriver blade to drag the rag through it.
Re: the domestic advice - why is it, I have to keep learning this lesson?
Re: the domestic advice - why is it, I have to keep learning this lesson?
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
I was talking about the two screws on the license plate light.
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Oops!Dick Koch wrote:I was talking about the two screws on the license plate light.
Yeah, but the paint is the least of my problems. These are security screws...
Shown here, and discussed here. How to get them out?
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
You are not going to believe this but l have been working part time at the local ACE Hardware for a little over a year and a half. I help customers in all departments but one of my primary jobs is the faster dept. Friday l was tasked with sorting and labeling all the security screws. We always have one of those tools in the drawer, coincidence or what. As per the article try thier methods or grind the head off.
Good luck,
Dick
Good luck,
Dick
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
- Matthew Keij
- Posts: 1407
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 3:37 pm
- Location: Poortvliet, The Netherlands
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Use your Dremel to make a slot in it for a screwdriver. That's how I always do it
July 14th 2019 “the soul crusher”
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
My stuff from Muscle Maniacs came today!
It really is good quality! Have to be careful with what you use to clean it, though...
I also got the spare tire cover. Nice! It has a stiff backing for the top, and an elastic band around the bottom to keep it snug.
I also got kick panels from them. They seem to be the right size, but I don't know what that scallop is all about:
I can't wait to start putting things back together!
Oh yeah. I have to wait until after I stop taking things apart
Mine didn't have that extra section, Mark - and, it had the cutout for the trunk latch base and an oval cutout for the filler tube:Mark '55 survivor' wrote: Like I said there is an extra part stitched on the top side. I don't know what it is for as I ran it up the seat back.Today I just folded it under as I am working on the car and placed it in for pictures.It has cut outs for the filler tube,I notched it out for the trunk latch base and A small acsess in the middle for my air shock stem.Plenty heavy and has some weight to it. Iam happy with it.
It really is good quality! Have to be careful with what you use to clean it, though...
I also got the spare tire cover. Nice! It has a stiff backing for the top, and an elastic band around the bottom to keep it snug.
I also got kick panels from them. They seem to be the right size, but I don't know what that scallop is all about:
I can't wait to start putting things back together!
Oh yeah. I have to wait until after I stop taking things apart
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
- Mark Merritt
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:57 pm
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Dan; looks good, mine must have been at the early side of production. I will call about the tire cover. I think I got my glove box from him as well. Mark
ONLY ORIGINAL ONCE!!!!!
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
The scallops are to fit around a brace under the dash, you will see when you install, you may have to trim a little.
Dick.
Dick.
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
T.W. Sam finally got his butt out to the garage today and attempted to remove the driveshaft. The rear was easy enough, the retainers for the universal joint came right off.
But man oh man, the nuts on the emergency brake drum were tightened up way more than they needed to be. I took a hammer to a small breaker bar, to no avail. So I did it the right way: I wirebrushed the threads, soaked in WD-40, gave the nuts a tap-tap-tap, and let it sit.
I decided to attack this casualty of driving by the Braille method:
Close enough for government work.
I then removed the plate bolted to the differential, that protects the rear universal joint (e.g., when the Sterling daughters were speeding over speed bumps). Man, was this caked with grease. Scraped it all off, wiped it real good with mineral spirits like Dr. '59 told me, and osphoed it. Came up real nice. Notice the the bumper retainer clip had come off the nub, a couple well placed taps with a flatblade hammer popped it back on.
Then I returned to the driveshaft. Preparation pays! And so does a big-ass breaker bar. Doncha know there was a "crack" with each one, but they came right off.
With the exhaust and driveshaft out of the way, I've got plenty of room to work. And there is plenty of work to do... In rust we trust! Those dry desert conditions were good to Faulkner (if the Sterling girls were not) - no rust through, all just surface stuff.
The driveshaft is in very good condition - tight joints, and even the boot is good and very pliable...
...except for one spot. I'm thinking I'll degrease the area, put a spot of silicone on it, and leave it be. Easy enough to fix if conditions worsen.
Since the rust I'm removing is fairly uniform, I assume I won't need to have the driveshaft rebalanced.
(! )
I used a hand held brush to get to those tough areas... I wiped greasy areas with mineral spirits, osphoed and then used my Yuengling Timer before I wiped it down.
Time for my Power Nap. But I'm off tomorrow, and will be back at it - now, attacking some of those big rusty areas.
But man oh man, the nuts on the emergency brake drum were tightened up way more than they needed to be. I took a hammer to a small breaker bar, to no avail. So I did it the right way: I wirebrushed the threads, soaked in WD-40, gave the nuts a tap-tap-tap, and let it sit.
I decided to attack this casualty of driving by the Braille method:
Close enough for government work.
I then removed the plate bolted to the differential, that protects the rear universal joint (e.g., when the Sterling daughters were speeding over speed bumps). Man, was this caked with grease. Scraped it all off, wiped it real good with mineral spirits like Dr. '59 told me, and osphoed it. Came up real nice. Notice the the bumper retainer clip had come off the nub, a couple well placed taps with a flatblade hammer popped it back on.
Then I returned to the driveshaft. Preparation pays! And so does a big-ass breaker bar. Doncha know there was a "crack" with each one, but they came right off.
With the exhaust and driveshaft out of the way, I've got plenty of room to work. And there is plenty of work to do... In rust we trust! Those dry desert conditions were good to Faulkner (if the Sterling girls were not) - no rust through, all just surface stuff.
The driveshaft is in very good condition - tight joints, and even the boot is good and very pliable...
...except for one spot. I'm thinking I'll degrease the area, put a spot of silicone on it, and leave it be. Easy enough to fix if conditions worsen.
Since the rust I'm removing is fairly uniform, I assume I won't need to have the driveshaft rebalanced.
(! )
I used a hand held brush to get to those tough areas... I wiped greasy areas with mineral spirits, osphoed and then used my Yuengling Timer before I wiped it down.
Time for my Power Nap. But I'm off tomorrow, and will be back at it - now, attacking some of those big rusty areas.
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Ya doing good, goop for the boot, l keep a small tube of goop in every car right next to the small roll of duct tape. I suggest you go on a rampage and spray every nut, bolt and screw
in sight either wd40 or blaster penetrant. I gotta ask, splain me a."flatblade hammer".
Dick
in sight either wd40 or blaster penetrant. I gotta ask, splain me a."flatblade hammer".
Dick
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
- Mark Merritt
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:57 pm
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
They are accurate to the minute, aren't they?55 survivor wrote:Dan; I use A Yuengling timer too!!! Mark
I knew you wuz gonna ask.Dr. Fifty-Nine wrote:I gotta ask, splain me a "flatblade hammer".
Not sure what it's called, 'xactly - but I know the other instrument in this photo is a persuader.
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
I got two of em. Usem on stainless steel trim a lot. Question, is a yuengling the same as a flat blade?.
Dick
Dick
Life is Beautiful! Sex, Beer & Mopars.
- Mark Merritt
- Posts: 553
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:57 pm
Re: Faulkner gets a Redo
Sometimes I set the timer 2 or 3 times on bigger jobs. Mark
ONLY ORIGINAL ONCE!!!!!