Looking for another trade secret - The bushing in the lower control arm has been replaced and the shaft refitted and the castellated nut which is in the recess that takes the torsion bar requires a split pin. Anybody got any idea how I get it in there ?
I would have to check the service manual on the toruqe rating of that Lower Control Arm (LCA) Nut, but after you do torque it down, I then would make sure the Castellated nut exposes the hole in which the Cotter pin would fit in it by inserting it with a pair of Needle nose pliers. And then bending down in opposite directions the open end sides of the cotter pin. This would keep the pin from falling out and the Castellated nut from loosening ever.
You may have to loose the nut on the Lower Controls Arm slightly after torquing it down to gain access to the Cotter pin hole insert the Cotter pin. Make sure you do have the large washer installed on the LCA shaft before putting on the nut.
I am glad you responded to this one, John. While I never performed the repairs he is talking about, I remember seeing the recessed nut with cotter pin, and it's seems only logical that the slots need to be lined up with the hole so the cotter pin can be inserted, using a pair of long, needle-nosed pliers
Is there a trick to getting the pin down there ? The length of pin required to go through the stub and bend back on itself is too long to be offered square to the hole in the space available so is proving difficult to get in.
Guy, I personally don't have a solution for your problem. Can a person put a slight curve in the cotter pin (make it curved like a banana) prior to feeding it into the hole using needle-nosed pliers? The pin only needs to be a bit longer than the diameter of the nut, so that you have SOMETHING to bend back.
If it can't be negotiated, all I can suggest is a a piece of wire...
Guy, don't know if you have the 59 Plymouth supplement or not but here is a PDF of the front suspension system.Just want to make sure we are talking the Lower Control Arm (LCA) shaft and nut as it goes thru the engine cross support. There is also the front Lower Control Arm stabliliser bar that goes to the outer end of the LCA near the lower ball joint and then goes forward towards the center of the front radiator support at an angle. This bar keeps the LCA from moving fore and aft and only allows up and down movement of the LCA.
Also shown is a picture of Ed Erickersons (stunning) 59 Plymouth that shows both of these mounting areas. The LCA shaft is secured with a square washer and then a lock washer and the special Castellated nut. And then a cotter pin is inserted in beween the raised section and the lower part of that special nut thru the LCA shaft. There is a small hole in that LCA shaft. Though I have seen some LCA shafts without this hole. Then the lock washer and nut would be the only way to secure the shaft. Is there a thru hole in your shaft of the Tortion bar/LCA shaft?
Now the other front stablizer strut rod is bolted to the LCA with two bolts and then is inserted (bushing is in place inside the front cross support) thru the front support and is then has a concave larger washer cap that captures the front of the bushing. A large Acorn nut is then threaded on (SAE fine theads here).
Note: Ed car has inadvertently but these large concave washer bushings on wrong, They should face (the concave part) should be facing the rear of the car cupping the strut rod bushing.
Ed's front suspension59 supplement section on the front suspension
Last edited by Denver 59 Fin Convert on Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am as frustrated as you that no conclusive reply has been posted (sorry, John).
I will try to post a scan of the Parts Book, which seems to imply that there is no cotter pin used onthat particular nut.
see the area outlined in RED
I rebuilt my front end 3 months ago along with the lower bushings. Paint a line across the end of the bushing shaft in line with the cotter pin so when you torque the nut you know where to line it up. Bend the cotter pin in the shape of a banana, Use a long pair of needle nose pliers and insert it. John was on the right track.
Thanks for the pdf's. The shaft in question is the one outlined in red, thanks Roger. There was a split pin in it when taken apart so I guess we'll persevere. Not sure about the " banana" analogy cos we only get straight ones in the UK - are they the rejects ?
American slang when you peel the bananna skin back it is splayed back against itself.
So when you insert the Cotter pin, you will take the two ends and peel them back 180degrees back onto the nut kepping the Cotter pin from working it self out of its placement.
Actually, John, here's what I was thinking; Give a new, un-splayed cotter pin a bit of a curve so that it resembles a crescent (or "banana"), this might allow the installer to more easily "thread" the pin thru the hole in a confined space. See Indian301's post. He said it best. I know there are heavy duty sewing needles like this. And yes, the pin needs to be bent back on itself once it gets installed.
I came in on this questiona little late... The split pin should have been installed before the bushing was pressed into the lower pivot. not to worry if you can do your bent pin, it would be just fine. Or you could dab on a little green penetrating Locktite.
Last edited by RICKYMOPAR on Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
